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Post by CrazyBrit on Sept 21, 2017 17:46:37 GMT -8
My bus is still running hot. On the way home from the show, it reached 250F on the gauge. I pulled over, checked the dipstick and could hold it quite comfortably. By the time I got home it had reached 270F. It was still running fine, however when I rechecked the dipstick it was hot - I could hold it for around 3 seconds. The engine smelled hot.
I had secured the flaps open with a bolt in place of the thermostat holding the vertical pushrod in the "up" position. I removed the bolt and checked the airflow at the back of the engine with the flaps in both positions - there was no noticeable difference. There is some airflow, but not what I would expect when I increase the RPMs. I can feel the linkage on the right side of the engine and it moves when the linkage is moved from below. It also feels like it is attached to the rods leading into the fan housing that are attached to the flaps. The doghouse on the left side of the engine prevents me from feeling under there.
Is there any way to check that the flaps are physically opening and closing without removing the fan housing? In this bus, removing the fan housing entails removing the engine because of limited height within the engine bay, which I don't really have time for right now!
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Post by mitchy965 on Sept 21, 2017 19:43:26 GMT -8
i use a hand held heat gun aimed right at the thermostat. i put a mark on the flaps spindle to verify smooth and full opening
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Post by CrazyBrit on Sept 22, 2017 5:50:33 GMT -8
Thanks. Unfortunately I think "full opening" might be a good description of the problem. Now I need to figure out why they are not fully open and the easiest way to fix it - ie without removing the engine.
The heater outlets from the fan housing are pushing out lots of air, so the fan is evidently fine.
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Post by mitchy965 on Sept 22, 2017 8:01:28 GMT -8
i have disassembled engines that the lower cylinder deflector plates incorrectly installed on the top of the cylinders.have a look underneath and see if they are present on the lower side. if you reach around the back of the fan shroud you should be able to operate the connecting link and move the flaps in unison provided the t stat is disconnected
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Post by 68IIIbuggy on Sept 22, 2017 8:59:26 GMT -8
How are you measuring your oil temps? VDO gauges are next to useless, and I won't use them any more. If you haven't tried it already, I suggest checking the temp various places on the case with a handheld infrared. You may be trying to fix something that's not broken.
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Post by Volktales on Sept 22, 2017 20:11:44 GMT -8
Mark, I have some fanshrouds not attached to engines and some on the bench. You can at least see if your flaps appear to be in the correct positions or not, if this helps...
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Post by CrazyBrit on Oct 29, 2017 20:42:22 GMT -8
So it's been a crazy busy few weeks. I found a spare hour for my bus tonight and boiled the temperature sensor in a saucepan of boiling water (using my trusty Coleman camping stove😉). Apparently water boils at 250F. Whoever said I might be trying to fix something that wasn't broken might be right! Anyone have an infra red thermometer?
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Post by tony on Oct 29, 2017 22:08:51 GMT -8
yep
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Post by Wongai on Oct 30, 2017 9:30:03 GMT -8
Mmmmmmm, temperature sensor soup.
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Post by tony on Oct 30, 2017 11:41:30 GMT -8
lol
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Post by CrazyBrit on Oct 30, 2017 11:57:30 GMT -8
I took it on a short test drive this morning - around 10km, all in town at 40mph (indicated) or less. The gauge was reading 190 F. My new infra red thermometer was reading 150F off the case. I'll try for a longer run tomorrow if I have time.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Oct 31, 2017 18:52:56 GMT -8
I took a nice long drive in the bus today. It sat at 220F indicated and 150F - 160F on the infra red thermometer. I also filled it up with gas and ran the fuel preservative through the system, just in case it was the last drive of the year😕.
I have photos to prove it, but can't upload them from my cellphone and am too lazy to turn on my computer tonight.
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Post by magikbus on Oct 31, 2017 19:42:05 GMT -8
I have a #3 cyl. head temp sensor on my engine. The guy who rebuilt it told me that they are notoriously inaccurate even though they cost above $150. The important thing he told me was to watch what the temp runs at in many different situations (hot summer days, cool days, slow driving etc) and keep an eye on it if it changes to hotter than it usually is in similar circumstances. It's the changes that count evidently, not necessarily the exact temps. Stan
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Post by 68IIIbuggy on Oct 31, 2017 20:04:01 GMT -8
It depends on what make of gauge you have. The common VDO cylinder head temp gauges are not cold junction compensated, so can give different readings based on ambient temperature. Awhile back I took a 12x12" square of 1/4" plate, clamped a few different J type thermocouples onto it, and put it in the oven. All the thermocouples I had were either VDO or cheapo Chinese ones. I tried three different gauges in combination with the 3 different thermocouples, and never got any consistent results. I've tested the VDO oil temp gauges in the past too, and found them only good for trending, like you say, not actual accurate temp measurement. I'm currently trying one of those oil temp dipsticks that connect to the oil light circuit. At least they can be easily calibrated at home. Maybe if I actually start driving my bus again I'll have sone results to report from this.
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Post by Volktales on Nov 1, 2017 7:15:53 GMT -8
I still have not tried any further testing on my Ghia at the moment, but will get back to it eventually. I would like to take either it or the '66 Beetle to the Seattle show next year...
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