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Post by magikbus on Mar 10, 2019 17:47:02 GMT -8
Wow, 10 times as strong as the value below it. That would make Super Clean 30 times stronger than Draino. Is that right Tony? Stan
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Post by Volktales on Mar 10, 2019 19:00:10 GMT -8
I know if you accidentally inhale the vapours, you are gonna cough!!! And yes, you MUST wear gloves if you are going to be handling parts covered with Super Clean. It will eat your skin quite nicely...
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Post by tony on Mar 10, 2019 19:07:47 GMT -8
Well Stan , based on my calculations blah , blah , blah...… lol , I 'GUESS' if one was exactly a ph 11 and the other exactly a ph 13 it would be 100 times as strong just like earthquakes! ☠☠☠
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Post by Brenticon on Mar 10, 2019 20:17:18 GMT -8
Tony, heard of any deals on floor jacks?
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Post by tony on Mar 10, 2019 21:58:25 GMT -8
lol
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Post by Volktales on Mar 31, 2019 19:57:51 GMT -8
Not too much to report this time. Some home improvements have been on the go with upgraded alarm systems and smoke detectors. They say you should change your detectors every ten years. Mine failed to work after the "latest" oven fire... Upon removal those detectors I remembered replacing not too long ago have in fact been up there for 19 years! Where the hell did that time go???
The Tercel project has required some re-thinking as I have been progressing. After lapping the valves, the seats and valves themselves cleaned up nicely with virtually no pitting. The contact margins were wider than I would like to see after 220,000 km, and the pattern that should have been in the middle of the valve face, was closer to the head then desired. Again this was not that bad, but if I did nothing about it, then it would be eating at me later on that maybe it was the wrong choice. Yet another trip to the machine shop cleared that up as my seats and valves have been reground... Sigh, more moola invested in a worthless car...Now it is time to get that bottom end together...
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Post by Volktales on Apr 7, 2019 21:03:57 GMT -8
Sooo, back at it... It is time to install those reground valves back in place. I was kind of dreading this for a couple of reasons... First up is to install the valve stem "condom" over the tip. This is to prevent the valve stem seal from tearing when it is placed over the end of the valve. You can see the steam seal lubed up and waiting in anticipation... It is then pushed down over the valve stem, and the protective sleeve is then removed. Then a 10 MM deep socket is placed on top the seal and is tapped into place with a hammer. Not hard to do, but then there are 15 more to go... Incidentally, air-cooled VW's once did have valve stem seals when they were new, but they were found to not really be necessary and were discontinued from gasket sets years ago... And here all the springs, retainer cap, and keepers needed to complete the job. Note the thin ring which sits at the bottom against the alloy head. This is a thin steel shim to stop the valve springs from digging into the alloy. Make sure you remove these before the head is washed or one will go missing, never to be seen again... Also note that I used Super Clean once again to remove the caked on oil deposits from these parts... Now it is time to compress the valve spring with a valve spring compressor tool. Duh. Note that the tool was not designed to work with OHC style heads. I made that adapter from and old piece of copper pipe, and it works OK. In this picture, the spring is already compressed and awaiting installation of the keepers. Although this picture is a bit blurry, it shows how to install the keepers. Basically pre-grease them and put them in place with a small screwdriver. This is certainly fiddly work, and should not be done when tired after a long day at the orifice... Fiddly keepers in place; now you have to carefully loosen the valve spring compressor tool without launching those pesky keepers across the room. Was very time consuming, and felt good when it was finally done. And in case you were wondering, all these components were kept together with their specific valves, in the correct locations. Just because... And here is one of the cam followers, and the shim that fits in the top. Again each one was cleaned, and reinstalled in it's original bore. These items (also called lifters, and sometimes "buckets") are the method Toyota chose to adjust the valves with. Those shims that fit in the top of each lifter, are what determines the valve clearances. This kinda sucks, because the only way to alter the clearances, is to replace the shims. Very time consuming, AND expensive! So why did Toyota do this? This arrangement features a large contact surface, so in reality they do not need to be adjusted very often. Toyota suggested every 72,000km for this engine, although the reality is nobody would ever do it until rebuild time. Also special tools are required to change these shims with the camshafts in place. I don't have those tools... For shops that did a lot of this work, they would have a large kit containing the special tools and a large selection of all shims potentially needed. We actually have a kit at the shop, but it is only useful for older water cooled VW models up to the mid 1980's. And it rarely gets used these days... Here is one of the lifters with shim installed over top of the valve. VW used a similar method once, but later installed self contained hydraulic lifters since the mid 80's and they work very well. For some reason Toyota never figured that out, because they still like using the same old style mechanical lifters, and Rebecca's FJ Cruiser has a variation on the same theme. And American cars have been using hydraulic lifters since the 1950's... Anyway, now onto that bottom end...
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Post by Volktales on Apr 22, 2019 20:57:48 GMT -8
Finally some more work got accomplished today... The main bearings were installed by simply pressing them into place, while making sure the halves with the oil gallery hole in them were installed into the block, and not the caps. Also note the thrust washers next to the centre main bearing. These were lightly greased to hold them in place. Unlike an air-cooled VW, these are not adjustable... Note that the bearings are select fit, and only go into certain positions, depending on stampings on the the block and crankshaft. You must pay attention to this, otherwise the installation is straightforward. Also Plasti-gauge was used to verify that the bearing clearance was acceptable. As mentioned in the past, this thin plastic "thread" is laid across the crank journal, and the bearing cap (without oil) is temporarily tightened to specification. Then the cap is removed, and the "squish" of the thread is measured. Around 0.0015" is just fine for this application. 0.002 is OK too. These were acceptable. All lubricated up and installed for real this time. The crank spins nice and free, so, so far, so good... Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Apr 22, 2019 21:18:44 GMT -8
Now it is time to install those rings onto the pistons. First up though is too check the ring gaps to make sure they are within specification. Just push them down a cylinder near the bottom, and stick a feeler gauge in that gap. The actual value varies a lot depending on which ring type you are measuring (top, second, oil control), and all were well within tolerance. Note that given I am using genuine Toyota made in Japan rings, I did not check each and every one. Unfortunately you have to check everything on the junky VW aftermarket rings that we get now, because the ring gaps can be in fact too tight, and must be filed to fit with adequate clearance. I have had to do this several times now... The ring clearance on the pistons themselves was also checked, to make sure the rings were not too tight in their grooves. Again this was ok. The rings were installed in the correct order, using just my fingers instead of a ring installer tool. The compression rings had a tiny engraved symbol to indicate which way was up. Very hard to see, and would not show up in a picture... Also I made notes as too which way to orient the gaps in the rings. Basically you do not want to line them up to each-other, and I followed exactly how Toyota wanted it done in the manual. All lubed up with 10W30 oil, and the rod bolt condoms in place. Time to slide them into the correct bores... To do this, I borrowed my favourite shop tool from work. This old Hazet ring compressor is designed for air-cooled engines, but worked just fine for the old Toyota. The cool feature of this, is you dial in the diameter of your piston, and squeeze the trigger to lock it in place. A few taps on the top of the piston with the wooden handle of a hammer, and down the bores they go. You do have to make sure you are putting the correct piston, in the proper hole, and facing the right direction. Fortunately this is not hard to do if you marked everything and take your time... Once again, the clearance is checked with Plasti-guage. Again it was fine. Then oil it up, and torque to the correct specification... It was nice to get these all back in place. Finally... Note the arrows that must point to the front of the engine. Again the pistons are select fit to their cylinder, so don't screw this up... And finally, the oil pickup is bolted on, but won't be tightened until I remember to bring my small torque wrench home from work. That is why the socket and extension are sitting on that bolt to remind me... Inching ever so closer to finishing the short block assembly...
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Post by PICTUP on Apr 23, 2019 14:40:18 GMT -8
Here is one of the lifters with shim installed over top of the valve. VW used a similar method once, but later installed self contained hydraulic lifters since the mid 80's and they work very well. For some reason Toyota never figured that out, because they still like using the same old style mechanical lifters, and Rebecca's FJ Cruiser has a variation on the same theme. And American cars have been using hydraulic lifters since the 1950's... Anyway, now onto that bottom end... Sorry, going back a step(or ten!)....Did you already address how do Toyotas run so long without the need for a valve adjustment? I know you have said FJs really should get an adjustment at some point in their lives, but rarely do because it is big job. But they continue to run whereas our VW engines would stop running a lot sooner if we weren't adjusting our valves regularly.
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Post by Volktales on May 12, 2019 21:15:39 GMT -8
Sooo, Don reminded me that I never got around to answering his previous question. The design of the bucket and shim setup for overhead camshaft engines is quite different from the overhead valve VW air-cooled design which requires rocker arms. The rocker action on the VW means the valve stem to adjuster contact point is quite small by design, and much more prone to wear than the OHC (over-head cam) designs. The valve tip to "bucket" contact point is wider and is always flat, thus wears much more slower than the OHV (over-head valve) designs. Toyota probably chose to use shims to make the adjustment instead of hydraulic lifters for cost reasons. Hydraulic lifters tend to get noisy with age and lack of maintenance, things that both seem common with old Toyotas...
The only thing accomplished on this project in the last week is dealing with the very rusty oil pan. I really wanted to buy a new one, but they are now NLA (no longer available) through Toyota. So a session with the blasting cabinet revealed lots of pitting, but fortunately no holes. The pan was then hot tanked at the machine shop to clean the insides spotlessly. Then priming and block sanding with multiple coats of filler primer, until the pits were filled to my satisfaction. Boring work for sure, but one more coat of primer will complete this part. And will filler primer hold up to the heat of the engine??? No idea; we will have to wait and see...
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Post by Volktales on May 26, 2019 18:41:59 GMT -8
So finally continuing on here... Sanding down the oil pan yet again for the umpteenth time. Sooo many pits to fill in... I did finally get there in the end once 90% of them were filled. I hate sanding and "bodywork"... The end result justified all the work however. Looks alright and relatively shiny. Painted the pan and the engine at the same time. It felt good to finally get this done. Seeing something clean and freshly painted is inspiring, and more work got done... A reminder of what things used to look like... Continued...
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Post by Volktales on May 26, 2019 19:09:29 GMT -8
And quickly after the paint dried, the cylinder head was installed. This was snugged down temporarily at first, and then it was time to measure up all the valve clearances. Both camshafts were fully installed for this step. Note the highlighted timing marks on the cam gears that must be aligned. You have to think about this as there are multiple marks to choose from, as the gears are used on more than one engine type. Fortunately the manual explained this well. Both cams fully tightened down, but only temporarily. I had to measure all the cam to shim clearances, as this will be used in a calculation to determine the new shim thicknesses required. Because I do not have the special tools to remove the shims with the cams in place, I will have to completely remove the cams again to obtain access to the shims. Oh well... The best way to measure the clearance was by taking my feeler gauges apart, as this was much quicker and easier to use under the camshaft lobes. Here it shows checking cylinder #1 intake valve "b", in action. Note that 0.003" is too small of a clearance, and this shim will have to be changed for a thinner one. Then it is time to remove the cams, and carefully measure each original shim. Once this is done, you plug in the measured clearance and original shim thickness into this chart. The chart indicates what shim number is required to give the correct clearance. There is also a formula in the manual which came in handy, given the "chart" had a few errors... There was a bit of calculating to do for this procedure. Hopefully I did it right... In the end I will be able to reuse some of the original shims, but still have to buy 9 new ones out of the 16 required. At $16.74 each. Plus tax... Because all of the painting for this project has been done, the mighty Tercel has finally entered the garage, to stay for some time. Surprisingly Rebecca did not want to take it out for a cruise, One Last Time. It will be interesting to see what actually failed in the old engine once it is ripped to tiny pieces, never to be reassembled. Maybe I should bury it in the back yard? There already may or may not be some VW parts buried under the driveway...
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Post by PICTUP on May 26, 2019 21:45:43 GMT -8
Mmmmmm, Almost Factory Fresh
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Post by magikbus on May 27, 2019 10:21:41 GMT -8
Russ, I'm totally in awe of your skills and knowledge (both vastly different attributes) in regards to these matters. I struggle with Betsy constantly in the simplest of things, such as rebuilding the rear brakes on her. Whenever I'm imagining myself plunging into a giant ocean sized morass of depression because I can't seem to get something on her to work, it helps to remember we all have our different areas of expertise. Now if only I could transpose my own area of expertise (namely taming a sometimes violent and totally disinterested class of 35, 16 year olds so that at least some of them can soak up some trig functions)........... At least I have mastered using my turn signals. Now on to world peace. btw my latest failure..... after 2 days of trying to rebuild a cheap HP printer that suddenly won't print anything black. I gave up and am buying a new one Stan
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