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Post by tony on Oct 31, 2014 16:30:42 GMT -8
mmmmmmmmmm bondo!!!!  |
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Post by magikbus on Oct 31, 2014 16:35:07 GMT -8
Rustmort, Yes, that's it! I looked at a black 71 in Duncan with a totally bondod front from bumper to windshield. They hadn't even smoothed it out before they painted it so it was pretty obvious. I was told it was totally rustmorted before being bondoed so it was ok.
Stan
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Post by hightopRob on Oct 31, 2014 18:19:44 GMT -8
What I am using is phosphoric acid, its 100% acid. I mix it 50/50 most times but also I put it on straight. Rustmort is 30% and por15 is about 10-15% acid. It was bought in Vancouver at a science supply store. Phosphoric acid turns rust into a workable surface that I think but not sure it turns into a Zinc coating.
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Post by Brenticon on Oct 31, 2014 18:24:11 GMT -8
Mmmmmmmm, acid
Pass my tie dye shirt man
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Post by tony on Oct 31, 2014 18:30:09 GMT -8
nope no zinc in phosphoric acid , maybe a little phosphorous though!   |
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Post by magikbus on Oct 31, 2014 19:14:12 GMT -8
Mmmmmmmm, acid Pass my tie dye shirt man Oh Oh! Brent is starting to remember bits of the 60's or maybe the 70s again! Soon he'll be installing shag carpet on the walls of his van. Stan |
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Post by Brenticon on Oct 31, 2014 19:20:41 GMT -8
Hmmmmmmm, green shag?
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Post by stude on Nov 1, 2014 9:35:18 GMT -8
Rob if you haven't primed it yet may I suggest that if your going to do the restoration then you invest in some good paint like from DuPont I like there etch primer you would use this over bare metal like you have there after you scrub that all clean with water soap and water or whatever your flushing out the acid with then I would wipe and and even sand off any high spots and clean with Isopropyl get the 99% stuff from behind the counter at the drug store and put it in a spray bottle once that dries I paint the DuPont Chrome Free Etch Primer 491-55 primer with a small paint brush like they use for arts and only paint the bare metal you can really push it in the cracks with a brush you don't need much it's thin just a couple ounces will do the bottom small can or jar lid or bottle cap will do there nothing worse than mixing too much expensive paint and then trying to apply it you just end up making a mess once that has has some time to set and it doesn't take long apply a coat of epoxy primer the same way just painting cracks and seams and all the etched area this stuff dries very hard a hard to sand so no brush marks or runs after that you could spray or even brush something like DuPont Nasons 421-10 SelectPrime 2K primer surfacer this stuff fills and can be sanded sand and work with this till your happy with the finish then spray with your finish coat you could paint your whole bus this way one bit at a time. There is so much work dealing with over spray and cleaning guns that is why I like the brush Rob that acid treatment is good I use rustmort and the I guns I use are small a cheap airbrush a small touch up gun and one of those cheap gravity feed guns you don't need a huge air supply to power them control your airflow when spraying to control your over spray right Ron Fisher these are only suggestion if anyone has any more helpful tips lets hear them this is the part one one talks about is is one of the most important for a paint job.   |
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Post by tony on Nov 1, 2014 11:20:10 GMT -8
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Post by mitchy965 on Nov 1, 2014 11:35:55 GMT -8
thanks for saving me all that typing Terry .....exactly what i would recommend
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Post by hightopRob on Nov 1, 2014 15:19:07 GMT -8
Cool thanks!!, I need all the help I can get as like I said I have never done this before
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Post by magikbus on Nov 1, 2014 16:20:04 GMT -8
Don, we need some place on the forum where only an admin can copy posts like the very informative one on paint above, to. Some archive that would be labelled clearly and searchable easily and not accessible to alter.
Stan
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Post by CrazyBrit on Nov 1, 2014 21:11:59 GMT -8
I used POR 15 on the underside of my bus when I painted it in the UK several years ago. I applied two or three coats (overcoating has to be done within a certain time period). It has held up really, really well. It has been parked in a garage for quite a while, but we won't dwell on that...
When I replaced the tran's in the bus I spent quite a significant sum on a very small tin of POR15 from Lordco. I degreased the area to be painted thoroughly and painted it in the late spring, when the temperatures were up in the high teens (Centigrade!). When I was under it a short while ago, big sections of the new paint were peeling off. Perhaps it was my prep' work, perhaps the degreaser was not that great. Not too impressed though. For the record, I have seen it in black, silver and clear.
Oh yeah - and do what Russ suggested. Engine bays painted a different colour to the car look pants. Russ did a really nice job on his KG. In my experience the easy way is usually not the best, especially with paintwork.
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Post by busaddict on Nov 1, 2014 22:01:28 GMT -8
The prep for POR-15 is a cleaner then a metal primer, 3 steps by the time you get the POR-15 on. Then they want you to use a regular primer and overcoat with automotive paint. That's 6 steps if you consider the wire brushing and general cleaning of the metal.
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Post by stude on Nov 2, 2014 6:47:59 GMT -8
Rob the paints are very expensive to get started with but the time you buy all the paints and hardeners it will be $400. some things like the epoxy you could only get in the gallon let me give you a starter kit with enough primers to do your the job engine compartment I have some cans that are almost empty that I have already replaced when they run out you could start to replace them for yourself that way you would only have to invest in the finish paint and thinner plus hardener for now is there anyone heading from Courtney to Nanaimo that could parts run for us.
Terry
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