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Post by Volktales on Feb 9, 2015 21:41:05 GMT -8
Several years ago when I finished my '72 bus bodily and mechanically, I drove it to my friend Brian's house so he could restore the cabinets, panels, and flooring. It was a very rainy day when this happened, but the weather was decent after this. He parked the bus outside and removed the various components and worked on them in his basement. He did this when he had time and the bus sat for a couple of months. He also lives next to the ocean... Guess what. Once he was done, the bus absolutely refused to move due to seized brakes. All the brakes were brand new and featured fully rebuilt calipers and new wheel cylinders, new linings, and machined drums and rotors, and all new brake fluid. When I went to see what went wrong, it turned out one rear drum had seized solid. After MUCH swearing and whacking with hammers (with the adjusters backed right off), the drum finally came. What had happened was the parkbrake had been applied and the lining literally welded itself to the drum. I had to chip the remains off and resurface the drum again. The brand new shoes had to be replaced which did not make my day. All due to moisture rusting the shoe on to the drum...
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Post by stude on Feb 11, 2015 10:49:35 GMT -8
A tool like this would work. Terry
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Post by busaddict on Feb 21, 2015 20:58:55 GMT -8
Success! After getting the bus safely up on my new 3 ton jack stands, I took the wheel off and tapped around the rear drum with a regular hammer. To my surprise it freed right away. Although not seriously stuck, it wouldn't move when the tire was on the ground. Drove it up and down the driveway with no problems, however it's time to service the brakes. I was planning on doing them anyway
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Post by busaddict on Apr 8, 2016 12:30:40 GMT -8
So I was working on one of the back brake drums on my '73 bus...and the brake line twisted right off when the line got stuck in the bolt that connects to the wheel cylinder. There's still enough left that I could put a new bubble flare on the exposed line and reconnect it. Need a new bolt though, that one is really stuck.
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Post by stude on Apr 8, 2016 15:56:06 GMT -8
Sure anything is possible but replacing it and the wheel cylinder would be cheaper and easier. T
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Post by busaddict on Apr 8, 2016 16:01:57 GMT -8
Sure anything is possible but replacing it and the wheel cylinder would be cheaper and easier. T Yah I'm working on it Stude Already replacing the wheel cylinder, I think the hard line too should do it. Thanks!
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Post by stude on Apr 8, 2016 16:29:51 GMT -8
There is a special wrench for brake lines one that slips over then hard line and clears the bolt then you got work it loose it is easier to just cut and replace your not reusing your rubber are you.
T
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Post by busaddict on Apr 11, 2016 0:33:46 GMT -8
Which rubber is that? I'm replacing anything that looks worn. Thanks for the wrench tip
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Post by stude on Apr 11, 2016 12:08:14 GMT -8
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Post by Wongai on Apr 11, 2016 12:55:36 GMT -8
My kid and her friends like to play in my 74 camper, so it has been on ramps to level it while parked on my downward sloping driveway. I'm about to repave my driveway so I needed to move the bus to a better place. When I released the hand brake, I could tell nothing really let go in the rear. I tried to nudge it back with a bit off throttle, but no go. I had to the use the last couple of inches of the top of the ramp to move forward to see if that would bust them free. I gathered my courage, revved er up and let out the clutch. I managed to avoid flying off the front of the ramps. Scared the crap out of myself! I wasn't going to tell anyone until i saw this thread. There are obviously better ways to attack this problem, but I love a good adrenaline rush. HA!
B
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Post by busaddict on Apr 18, 2016 14:41:57 GMT -8
I can't budge the hard-line fitting that connects from the wheel cylinder to the soft-line. I've tried spraying it with a liberal amount of Freeze-Off with no result. In my last installment the hard-line had twisted right off at the wheel cylinder. Any suggestions to free this hard-line so I can replace it?
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Post by mitchy965 on Apr 18, 2016 15:08:02 GMT -8
heat!!!
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Post by busaddict on Apr 18, 2016 15:30:12 GMT -8
Do you mean one of these? I'm a bit nervous using open flame near a soft line etc.
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Post by mitchy965 on Apr 18, 2016 16:50:20 GMT -8
oxy/ace is a whole lot better but propane will do in a pinch. make a tin shield to protect anything you need to. you dont have to get it cherry red just enough to break the corrosion. heat the tube nut first and then the hose end.have your wrenches(that fit tight) ready. judging by the picture i would be replacing that flex line!the common failure on these hoses is at the crimp where it rusts (on the inside). when they are that rusty on the outside they are screaming "replace me!" . cut an old rusty one open to see what i mean.
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Post by tony on Apr 18, 2016 16:56:11 GMT -8
Wrap a wet rag around the rubber part of the soft line and giv'er. Try a bit of heat and try to loosen , try more heat , try quenching the heated up joint with a soaking wet rag or lots of water , repeat that tired old rubber line should be readily available if you destroy it and is just maintenance anyway. With a little luck you'll get it apart , with no luck you mangle all the brake lines all the way to your MC........good luck!
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