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Post by CrazyBrit on Jan 31, 2021 21:13:26 GMT -8
Thanks Rob. I might end up taking you up on that. As you can probably tell, I'm new to this performance stuff and very much an amateur when it comes to mechanics.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 1, 2021 17:21:39 GMT -8
Next question.
Stock clutch, or heavy duty? If non stock, what brands are recommended?
I guess that's really two questions...
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Post by Rob Sannes on Feb 1, 2021 19:03:57 GMT -8
A stock clutch could work if your EASY on it but the extra power and weight of the bus can overpower it. That 1914 of yours should have some giddyup especially down low in the rpm range. IMHO I think a Kennady 1700 lb AKA stage 1 pressure plate and the very popular "kush lock" disk would be a good choice. I run a 1700 kennady pressure plate in my oval with a Berg PN 104 disk. Same as CB 1301 disk. The disk is a little overkill for your application but I like it. Go to the cb performance site it has a good description. You will feel a bit more pedal effort but its not that bad and you won't worry about a slipping clutch. I ran a 1776 in a 71 Bus years back with a cb1301 disk and a luk brand stock weight 900 lb I think "BUS" pressure plate and it was great. Infact that same clutch from that motor is now in my old 69 that Greg owns and he drives it daily in spring summer and fall. Cheers
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Post by owdlvr on Feb 1, 2021 22:52:58 GMT -8
Yup, Kennedy stage 1 with a Kushloc disc!
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Post by magikbus on Feb 2, 2021 9:44:43 GMT -8
So heat is for girls according to Stan. Honestly I like my ladies a little on the chilly side ( • ) ( • ) I agree but its hard to get at the delightfully chilly bits when they are fuming mad at you. As for the summer mention, one memorable experience was driving across the neck toward St Johns one early August day with the temp at mid 30s F and the fog blowing sideways at 40 mph. It was late in the season but I could swear there was a pack of berggy bits out there in the ocean cooling off the wind. We were wearing every piece of clothing we had with us and were still glad to finally get to a restaurant for a hearty breakfast of fried spam and hot coffee. Anybody out there from the rock that identifies with that Stan
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 2, 2021 17:50:54 GMT -8
Thanks Gents. Time to break out the credit card again. Interestingly, CIP is around $100 more expensive than AVR for these parts. They do include free shipping, a plastic alignment tool and a release bearing, but wow!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 27, 2021 19:54:09 GMT -8
I've been having issues with the sump plate leaking on my bus engine. Whilst I was putting things back together, I set a straight edge across the stud holes on the sump plate and there is a raised area around each of the stud holes. I tried the one off my Scat engine, and noted the same issue. One of them looks like cheap Chinese crap, but the other actually looks otherwise decent. Reproduction junk. I do have an OG flat plate, which is in great condition, but it does not include the 14mm plug in the centre to facilitate cleaner and easier dumping of used oil. The reproduction plates do have this plug and I want to keep this feature, but I am not sure if this was even available on stock plates? There are fancy billet ones available on CIP, but I am not looking for bling, just something that keeps the oil in, doesn't bend or warp and makes draining oil clean and simple. CIP does offer a CSP plate, designed to take a 14mm temperature sender, so presumably a regular sump plug would work. Being CSP, I would expect it to be decent quality. www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31%2D115%2D181%2D113CSPAVR has a nice looking Fastfab one: avrparts.com/products/fast-fab-sump-plate-6-bolt-black?_pos=1&_sid=39b59b6d9&_ss=rWhat experiences have everyone had with this? It seems to be a place that leaks no matter what I do and I don't want any more leaks!
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Post by Rob Sannes on Feb 27, 2021 20:02:54 GMT -8
You should be able to flatten it out with a ball pein hammer. Use the copper washers. Good luck
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Post by tony on Feb 27, 2021 21:35:19 GMT -8
Put a piece of glass on your bench and using increasingly finer sandpapers , true up your sump plate/cover.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Feb 27, 2021 22:11:20 GMT -8
You should be able to flatten it out with a ball pein hammer. Use the copper washers. Good luck I use a small socket in the vise and give them a couple light taps to knock the crown down. Then if yoh follow up with Tony's tip to finish it off and you should be good.
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Post by Volktales on Feb 27, 2021 22:44:30 GMT -8
At the shop, I regularly hit those sump covers with a ball peen hammer around the holes. Basically normal operating procedure...
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Post by stude on Feb 28, 2021 7:24:36 GMT -8
Most oe sump plates have the 14mm hole for the plug that I have seen.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 28, 2021 8:31:25 GMT -8
Thanks Gents. I tried the hammer trick and it is definitely better. With the amount of cash I've spent on this bus lately, a no cost repair is always nice!
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Post by owdlvr on Feb 28, 2021 10:40:37 GMT -8
My solution is full flow oiling, a new sump plate, and a little right stuff. The oil plate only gets removed if the engine has a problem.
Otherwise, on my stock engines it's tap it like everyone has done, or a CSP/FAST-FAB plate. The aluminium plates are great, until you hit something with em. The steel plates take road impacts better without leaking. The aluminium plates dome-out like the steel ones as well.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 28, 2021 11:35:13 GMT -8
So you're draining the oil via the external filter?
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