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Post by busaddict on Aug 27, 2021 20:17:09 GMT -8
I've been working on my '73 bus this summer replacing the brakes and making sure all is operating properly. After re-adjusting the automatic choke it now starts normally, but after warming up although it idles consistently at just under 1000 RPM the engine is shaking a little. Acceleration and overall driving feel fine, just at idle, and it's a little reluctant to start when warmed up. The carbs were professionally rebuilt 10 years ago, only driven for 4 years. Did I over adjust the automatic choke? The dwell is about 51 degrees and the timing is correct for an SVDA 7.5 degrees BTDC. Maybe I should change the points? Your thoughts and experiences welcome  |
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Post by Volktales on Aug 27, 2021 20:28:36 GMT -8
We usually set those points to 46 dwell initially. This is at the bottom of the range to allow for wear to occur. 48-52 is considered the best for new points, but some manuals will state used points can operate anywhere from 42-58. 51 should be alright. Those old Solex carbs are well known to be finnicky to start when warm. Generally you have to hold foot to the floor until they start when hot. Around 900-950 is correct idle speed. Did you fiddle with the mixture settings? These carbs have to be synchronized properly to work well. Make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks...
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Post by busaddict on Aug 27, 2021 20:58:18 GMT -8
Thanks Russ! Interesting, yes I do have to hold the pedal down to the floor to get it to start when warm. The mixture settings were set 10 years ago at a shop and I haven't adjusted them since, a bit intimidating, but I have adjusted the idle of course. It doesn't appear to have any vacuum leaks. This is the factory original engine with only around 150,000 miles on the clock. The overall running gear on this bus is very tight and it's a pleasure to drive. I had started it over the years while it was off the road and kept it tuned and changed the oil. Last points change was 2018 when I also adjusted the valves, I guess it wouldn't hurt to change them and set to 46. Do you have any special tricks for mixture settings?
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Post by busaddict on Aug 28, 2021 21:44:29 GMT -8
Now reading up on carburetor synchronization, I presume the "snail" is the better model to use. It seems you really need one of these to do it properly. ACC-C10-7115 - (EMPI STYLE 5746) UNIVERSAL CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZER TOOL - SU TYPEwww.cip1.ca/acc-c10-7115/ACC-C10-7125 - DELUXE CARBURETOR SYNCHROMETER TOOLwww.cip1.ca/acc-c10-7125/ |
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Post by 1hotvw on Aug 29, 2021 9:48:24 GMT -8
the snail works great if you have velocity stacks on your carbs. the uni works on a lot of others. for kadrons you need to make a simple adapter, ie, spacer from a soup can by cutting bottom and top off to make a seal.most soup cans are the right size for kads. use black tape or other on one side, the uni has foam on the bottom.
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Post by busaddict on Aug 29, 2021 11:44:26 GMT -8
The "snail" certainly looks like the better tool, I'm running the stock Solex carbs so the I think the fit should be no problem. Thanks for the tips with regard to other carb set ups.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Aug 29, 2021 14:02:03 GMT -8
I have the snail type. I tried the other style and it would not fit the tops of my Weber 40 IDFs. I don't know whether it is compatible with Solexes. CIP also offer a neoprene collar to help with the fitment to different carbs. I have the short one for my 34mm Webers, but don't need it for the 40s. Here is the Solex collar. www.cip1.ca/c13-43-5714/ |
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Post by busaddict on Aug 29, 2021 14:33:15 GMT -8
I was unaware of those on CIP1, thank you!
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Post by owdlvr on Aug 29, 2021 17:43:06 GMT -8
Uni-sync for Kads, Snail for Weber’s.
If you want to borrow my uni-sync you’re welcome to it. I haven’t used it in almost a decade.
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Post by Volktales on Aug 29, 2021 20:19:30 GMT -8
I have only had the Uni-sync. The original ones worked great, the repros that CIP sells are crap. You really do need one or the other to synchronize dual carbs properly. The green Bentley does explain the procedure fairly well...
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Post by busaddict on Aug 29, 2021 20:47:35 GMT -8
owdlvr, thank you for the offer, I'm on the South Island so I don't know when I'd be up there, but I'll keep it in mind for sure Thank you Russ for the Uni-sync tip. Tried pushing the pedal a bit farther down on a warm start and it's much better, it's all about technique. Every bit of knowledge gleaned makes a difference! |
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Post by busaddict on Sept 19, 2021 10:44:57 GMT -8
To remove points from the equation I installed an almost new Mexican Bosch SVDA with Petronix ignition, 7.5 degrees BTDC. I think it's a bit smoother overall and seems to idle more evenly some of the time, but then it can still wobble a bit. Perhaps this is inherent with boxer engines, maybe I'm over thinking this.
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