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Post by PICTUP on Oct 4, 2015 20:47:00 GMT -8
Okay, first off, good job on those grimy bits Claire! Thankless work it might seem, but it is a very necessary part of the job as a whole. And risking the possibility of redundancy, you get to know your Bus better. Speaking of getting to to know the workings of a VW better……something that seems to really elude me is confidence when trying to get to know the Type 4 engine. Taking something apart is easy. However when you leave something apart for longer than a year after you have cleaned/painted most (more on this later) of the parts, the trepidation of putting it all back together increases. And if you are like me and have too many projects on the go at once then said trepidation rises to levels that become somewhat unbearable. So what to do? Put your absolute reliance in your friend that 1. can figure out what pieces and fasteners go where, and in what order……. and in my case 2. can endure your negativity of being completely disorganized and unprepared for doing good efficient work. Okay, enough of my snivelling or whining or whatever you want to call it, my apologies…. This engine is a 2000cc fuel injected Type 4 with hydraulic lifters and lots of bits and bobs. I have never attempted to reassemble one past the long block stage. Yesterday we started adjusting the valves. Of course being hydraulic, if done correctly, these will only have to be adjusted once. The procedure is basically the same framework as adjusting "regular" valves. Put the distributor in the #1 TDC position which can be verified by looking thru the spark plug holes and seeing the piston at the top of its stroke. Back off the valve adjuster screw until it is well clear of the valve end. Note, these pics are for cylinder #2. Make sure at this point that the push rod is seated in lifter(with a flashlight looking in) and the rocker cup. Then turn the adjuster in by hand, lightly, as you want to feel when the slack just comes out and the rocker rocks only with pressure At this point turn the adjuster in 2 full turns After both the exhaust and intake are done for that particular piston then turn the engine backwards 1/2 turn(in this case use the flywheel) and you are ready to do the next cylinder's valves.
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 5, 2015 19:47:49 GMT -8
Next up was actually putting pieces on the engine. Sometimes it is the case of one step ahead and then back two. Here the oil cooler had gone on then had to come off because the oil filter bracket had to be fitted(with a gasket and aviation form-a-gasket sealant liquid was applied to both sides) You will notice in the above pic the seals for the oil cooler have the same aviation gasket liquid on just the outer rim. According to one of Russ' shop mates who has been at this business for quite a while, it helps with keeping these gaskets from ever leaking. Generally they usually go in place on the cooler first and while they stick to the cooler, it is put into place. But since we had to take a step back here, they decided to stay stuck to the block. So, on goes the cooler. The bracket on the left hand side of the cooler is incorrectly assembled here. I had forgotten it is meant to attach to the fan shroud, once on, thus they should both be vertical. The 3 nuts go on with I think a mere 5 ft/lbs torque and there is a particular sequence to the washers…thick, thiner, thinnest. Can't remember if there is a lock washer or not….. early onset ALS? Just be sure to make a note of it, unlike I did! At this point the oil filler tube can be installed with a gasket and same sealant. Next comes the engine support bar. I don't know if people refer to it as a moustache bar as in early Bays, but it is the same type of thing. There was only one problem with this stage of the operation here and that was I had completely forgotten where it was. I remembered it coming off and I knew it was an oily mess, but for the life of me couldn't place where I had seen it last. This is the point that I got really mad at myself ( ) and because I was absolutely wasting his time, I encouraged Russ to leave. For some reason he had faith that we would find it. Well it took over an hour to locate(see what I mean by too many projects and thus parts and other stuff!, but in the end it was located outside under a tarp with a bunch of other dirty gross VW parts. So I needed to give it a quick clean and luckily where it was oiliest (i.e. in the centre) the paint was still pretty good underneath. The outsides will need attention, but that can be remedied fairly easily later. Sorry about the lack of pics here, but lost ground had to be made up…. Next put on the RHS tin in front of where the alternator will go(front is front of car). Put together the two halves of the fan shroud if you have had it apart for cleaning like I had. There are a number of slightly longer Philips head screws with wavy washers here, along with 3 bigger hex bolts whose locations on the shroud from the rear are obvious. The one smaller hex head bolt will go in later to help secure the alternator rear tin. Remember to put on the alternator air boot on the fan shroud here. Also don't forget the dipstick "accordion" boot and connect it as fan shroud goes on with the four nuts and wavy washers in from of where the fan will go(studs come out of engine block). The air flaps can now be put into place. Apparently later engines do not have any flat pieces of metal attached to the fan shroud casting to keep the spring in place, the spring end merely hooks under the casting. Make sure they are well clicked together and operate correctly. Here the upper cooling shrouds can be installed. For the LHS the distributor will need to be removed if in place to allow the tin to be slid into its position. Also the "special screw" with the large fine threads on top of the block will have to be removed and replace after the tin is in place. It can screwed into place. Don't be tightening any screws until all are started. Put your Cylinder Head Temp sensor in place just forward of the intake to secure the tin. Instal the RHS cooling shroud(tin) with the numbers 1 and 2 embossed on it. You can put the spark plugs in here and the breather box on the top of the engine with its gasket. Now is the time for the thermostat. First feed the wire up thru the rear round hole in the RHS tin. Put thermostat in its bracket loosely in its place with the two bolts. Push the tab where the wire will attach all the way forward which as you will have noted before, doesn't allow much air to the cooler. Attach the wire to the tab with the 7 mm bolt(not too tight…it seems like it needs more, but it doesn't) with a little bit of slack in the wire. The slack can then be taken up by pushing the thermostat in its bracket forward and securing it in place. If the thermostat fails, or the wire breaks, the flaps will allow as much cooling air to the cooler as possible. Bolt the fan on with 14 ft/lbs. At this point get out your wiring harness and find the part with the plus that go on the alternator. Plug them in securely. Feed the other end thru the hole in the RHS tin and put the alternator in its bracket on the fan shroud making sure it is in the air boot coming from the fan shroud you put on earlier. These big Westy alternators(70 Amp?) produce quite a bit of heat and need to be cooled as they are kinda tucked in there. At this point loosely instal a fan belt to make sure the alignment of the belt it to your liking when viewing from the side. Not a terribly easy task, but get it as good as you can. The sheet metal around this area and the other side can be assembled, watching how they overlap and taking cues from the indents in the tin. Yay, a couple of pics! At this point putting the forward upper tin(that takes the foam seal and sits under the firewall can go on. One problem is the engine stand usually needs to be loosened before the tin can sit down in place. Careful not to loosen it too much! Tighten it back up as soon as the tin is in place. The air plenum (football type thing with tubes for the intake manifolds) can go in place along with the auxiliary air regulator(below and to the rear) now by removing two nuts from the two mounting bolts that also serve to bolt the case together. It is easiest to put them in place after connecting the two with their connecting hose. Time for the wiring harness! Lay it on top of the engine and refer to the pics you took when taking it apart, or pics of another similar engine, or even another engine to see how things are routed. It can be challenging! When you think you have it basically in place, plug in your grounds to the top forward of the block. Then plug in auxiliary air regulator on RHS which is a black to black connection. There also is a thermo-timer connector which is brown to brown. Incidentally the thermo-timer is what doesn't allow the engine to flood and also senses the temp for the cold start injector to operate. At this juncture the intake manifolds can be assembled on the engine with their gaskets and connector hoses. Take note, they are different side to side, so before trying to bend anything try them on each side and you will probably find they fit just fine. Carrying on, route fuel lines along with spark plug wires and connect the various electrical and fuel connections. It really looks like something now
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Post by busaddict on Oct 6, 2015 0:12:41 GMT -8
We should have a reality TV Show called the "VW Stock versus Custom Challenge" starring Don and WCP, it would be interesting...
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 7, 2015 18:06:16 GMT -8
We should have a reality TV Show called the "VW Stock versus Custom Challenge" starring Don and WCP, it would be interesting... As long as it wasn't a competition(because I would lose) and I could have a lifeline to call Russ(which I would use repeatedly, lol!) Well I think I have almost completed the Hillbilly Fabrication section of bits in the engine compartment in my attempts to make it "air tight" plus keep out excess moisture. The alternate battery tray needed a lip on the inside(inboard) edge to take the weight of the battery and transfer it to the actual body metal. I didn't feel as though I could trust the glue in shear to accomplish this task. I had to make a piece to attach to the existing piece and while it situ somehow locate it in such a way that it could be replicated once taken out. I ended up using vice grips to solidify it in situ, then I drilled 1/16" holes thru both pieces which would then accept a small wire after removal. I crimped the wire over and the method worked very well, providing a solid join allowing me to weld it. Lap welds are easier in thin gauge metal, but I still managed to make it ugly. Hopefully with some practice I will get better… Where it needed to be bent was marked(ragged rusty(rust morted) edge Welded Folded straight on the line Here from below is why it needed more rigidity/support Fold complete after fitting In primer after a bit of sanding Both ready for instal
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Post by busaddict on Oct 7, 2015 18:38:26 GMT -8
Quite functional, I like it! Are you offering this as a regular service to customers?
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 9, 2015 22:18:35 GMT -8
Quite functional, I like it! Are you offering this as a regular service to customers? Functional yes. Pretty no. Regular service, no…. well not until I get some more metal shaping tools(which may be never, but sadly I am prone to dreaming too much and not enough doing). Check out this guy's videos. Not the right accent for the VW, but my Saab likes it!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Oct 10, 2015 20:18:27 GMT -8
I like that tool! I want one!
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 11, 2015 21:55:43 GMT -8
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Post by chickenwing on Oct 11, 2015 22:30:18 GMT -8
Someone's been busy! Holy cow, can't believe the progress lately! Looking really great so far. That battery tray work is really beyond me and it's amazing what a bit of fresh paint did for that old engine bay. I hope you've set aside some time for some turkey this weekend!
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Post by Brenticon on Oct 12, 2015 13:17:07 GMT -8
HOLY CRAP! No farting around there.
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 12, 2015 18:01:48 GMT -8
Someone's been busy! Holy cow, can't believe the progress lately! Looking really great so far. That battery tray work is really beyond me and it's amazing what a bit of fresh paint did for that old engine bay. I hope you've set aside some time for some turkey this weekend! Yeah, paint makes a big difference in the look…not that anyone will ever see it unless they are underneath the Bus! Yes, Saturday was our Turkey Day at mum and dad's and there is still some in the fridge HOLY CRAP! No farting around there. Well there may have been, being that the night before was for the aforementioned turkey…Luckily I had the ventilator fan going! The last of the heater/exhaust pieces got attention a few days back. It needed a clamp made from steel and welded on to look sorta stock From this: To this: Close enough to the original:
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Post by Volktales on Oct 12, 2015 21:01:48 GMT -8
You got a lot more accomplished then I did this week... Looking great!
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 18, 2015 22:30:22 GMT -8
Plugging away on this. Too slowly! But it is what it is and upon removal of the firewall to assess the condition of the various fuel hose conditions, I found what looks very similar to what I have already encountered on the other Dakota Beige Bus. The short hose that connects the solid fuel filler to the tank has deteriorated to the point where I think it is prudent to replace it. Only one problem, it is not reproduced. My search for a replacement hose yielded a straight piece a week ago, but I had my doubts as to whether it was wise to try to use it. Why? Because this short piece has about a 10 degree kink in it. Seems like a very odd thing to me that the VW engineers couldn't design the fuel filler ever so slightly different so that the two would be aligned. Yesterday I stumbled across what looks to be the answer in a samba thread that says the use of a straight piece won't work. The part comes from an unlikely source…Dodge. Yup, from the Mercedes Sprinter Van days. When I get the part, I will post the results…until then this is what it looks like Garry painted the wheels and bumpers to Claire's specifications. Lookin' good in the proper, for the bumpers anyway, Pastel White!
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 20, 2015 19:01:22 GMT -8
Well, I got the Mercedes part today. It is a bit tight on the steel filler neck and the tank, but that is what I would think is a good thing. This is what it looks like. I hope to get it installed soon Before I put the exhaust together I figured I should put in an effort to see if I could come up with better gaskets that the Vanagon ones CIP passes off as ones for late bay air cooled applications. Brent told me that he had had some luck with ones found locally, but couldn't remember exactly where. First stop was Bakers where I used to be more of a fixture when I lived in Cedar. Peter let me peruse their selection of the exhaust gaskets. No luck there, but Peter offered to try to try to match one in the book by measurement. I would say he did a great job! It is a Walker Exhaust Gasket part number 31327 CIP on the right- note the large hole - and the Baker's one on the left Here is how much material hangs over for each one. First CIP Vanagon Bakers (Lordco too).
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 21, 2015 20:27:46 GMT -8
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