Type-1 Engine...anyone need?

[owdlvr]

Anyone need a 1600cc long block or turn-key motor?

I prepped a case and parts to build up a stock 1600, but ended up going a (very) different direction with the '58. The case is prepped for a stock setup (no full-flow oiling), and while I have a whack of parts for it, there are options for build-to-spec within certain parameters. Currently I have:

• 1600 dual relief case, line-bored with bearings to match
• Case hardware kit, seal kit, etc.
• New AA 1600cc piston and cylinder set
• New Empi cylinder heads
  
• Schadek oil pump
  
• SS Pushrod tubes
• Ceramic coated exhaust and cylinder head
  
  
• VW crank - 1st cut on rod journals
• VW connecting rods
• VW camshaft & lifters
• VW rockers & pushrods

I'm short on factory tin and factory pulleys, and other external items (which you could provide if we're building turn-key). 

Price wise, totally depends on how we build it. I'm not looking to make money as an engine builder, but I am looking to recover costs on parts and move the money over into the engine build on the blue car. So...if you need a stock-sized motor, let me know?

[CrazyBrit]

I need an engine for my Ghia, but had intended to rebuild the old one. That said, a motor rebuilt by someone like you would likely be significantly more reliable....
I am looking for a bit more power than what I had previously. As we've discussed before, I was thinking 1641cc, or maybe 1776. The old motor had low compression dished pistons and was a stock 1600cc, with a progressive Weber. I have a decent pair of Weber 34s, but a crappy linkage. I'm looking for a bit more oomph, but good reliability. I have a full set of tin and ancillary components.
Are the heads that you have stock? When you say options, what can be done with a stock 1600 to liven it up, other than a cam and rockers? I'll PM you my cell number if you want to chat off the forum.

[owdlvr]

Mark, I'll give you a call later today (probably afternoon) but in the interest in keeping information available for other folks, here's my thoughts...

The Best Upgrade you can possibly do to any motor, any size, is to fully balance it. I put a counterweighted crank into anything I build, and then balance the entire rotating assembly. Crank, rods, pistons, front pulley, flywheel & pressure plate are all balanced together. On my last motor build (two years ago) it was about $400 in balancing. Where this really benefits is in longevity. I wear out rings and cylinder walls before I need to cut a case again for line bore.

On engine size I don't know that you're honestly going to feel a difference between a 1600 and 1641. But there is a difference in your mind. So, if a person doesn't yet own pistons and jugs I always say buy the 1641cc set. If they do own 1600 units already, I don't think it's worth the hassle of swapping. Moving to a 1776cc engine requires machining the case for different cylinder sizing, and then that opens up some other questions/options.

In your case Mark, a 1600cc, with dual Weber 34's will definitely feel more powerful. Toss in a lightened flywheel and it will feel sharper off the line. The 1600 is choked down on the intake side and the exhaust side, so if we open up both of those (even on a stock head) you'll notice a difference for sure.

1600 Build
My thoughts, if I'm building a 1600cc would be to do the following:
- Counterweighted Crank Empi (I have a combined half-million kilometers on empi counter balanced cranks, they are excellent)
- Empi Forged I-Beam rods (they seem to balance better/easier than the 'stock' replacements)
- Cam/Rockers/Compression Ratio/Carbs are all chosen together.
- Engle W90 and stock rockers with a stock carb, and exhaust.
- Engle W100 and stock rockers with ICTs or Kadrons, stock exhaust is fine.
- Engle W100, 1.25 rockers and a touch more compression with IDF36s or IDF40s. This is the point where an exhaust & heater boxes starts to be noticeable.
- Engle W110, 1.25 rockers and IDF40's if you're okay with a lumpy/crappy idle, but want a 'screamer' 1600. Definitely need a different exhaust system.
- Stock Empi heads - I leave them stock without porting and polishing unless I'm building for IDF40's, at which point you have enough intake potential that porting and polishing starts to make sense. But, if I'm spending the money to get the heads done...why am I building a 1600? They are supposed to be 'cheap'.

You can also play with compression ratios, and porting and polishing (with any cam choice) will help the 1600. But, you have to consider the long-term costs of mid-grade or premium fuel over regular.

The biggest limitation on the case I have, is the fact that its not setup for Full-Flow oiling. So in order to add an extra oil filter we have to use an in/out oil pump cover and lines. It's just not the way I like to do things...and I can't for the life of me remember why I had the case setup that way. It was one of four cases I sent out for line-bore/thrust and I suspect it was okay without needing any cuts, so it just didn't end up getting any machine work. I think the original plan was to use this case for a backup in the '58, so I didn't care about the full-flow. Lol, remember when I was keeping the '58 "stock-like"? hahahaha

(Side note on the Empi Heads: Years ago a very well-known head specialist was having trouble finding good cores for his performance heads. He was doing all my headwork at the time, and approached me about trying the Empi castings for my next personal motor. We bought stock Empi 1600 heads, he reworked them for my 2110cc, and they're still in the Rally Bug many years later. As I understand it, they've become the new 'core' for a lot of his heads)

[1hotvw]

if you want full flow to your ghia, its not that big of a job, much easier if block still apart. i have added full flow to a motor still in car, hand drill with lots of grease on drill, go slow, tap the case, clearance for the brass fitting using grease on the tap as well, clean any remainder with pipe cleaner.remove oil plunger for final cleaning. use no air. last i hear motor still running 8 years later.

[stude]

You got me motivated I going to pull out one of my spare motors and clean it up 1641cc going to put 36hp shroud on it stock exhaust kadrons new paint ceramic heater boxes 6 volt generator and flywheel. Should be good enough to run me up island in my beater oval.
. I don't want to grind my crashbox bellhousing I know I could convert to 12 volt but I am good with six volt I want it an easy 36hp-1641 swap any day of the week. It is great your sharing your stories and knowledge with us and now your stuff.
Terry

[owdlvr]

Dec 9, 2022 11:31:32 GMT -8 1hotvw said:

if you want full flow to your ghia, its not that big of a job, much easier if block still apart. i have added full flow to a motor still in car, hand drill with lots of grease on drill, go slow, tap the case, clearance for the brass fitting using grease on the tap as well, clean any remainder with pipe cleaner.remove oil plunger for final cleaning. use no air. last i hear motor still running 8 years later.

Yeah, I've done a couple in the car...and decided (later) the risk wasn't worth it. It either gets done when the case is apart, or I live with it as is. 

-Dave