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Post by magikbus on Apr 29, 2017 14:13:26 GMT -8
OK, I took the gas spigot off the bottom of the tank since it was loose and found there were no gaskets on there. I made two of them for above the fitting and below it out of viton gasket material. Any opinions on these? I'll post a pic of it if I can get photobucket to cooperate. I have a series of copper fittings, starting with a compression fitting to attach to the nipple which will orient the gas line 90 deg sideways to a copper bayonet fitting to attach the rubber gas line to. Stan   |
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Post by 1hotvw on Apr 29, 2017 14:30:02 GMT -8
why not get some tubing, or large brake line make a 90 weld it to a washer that fits inside.use your gaskets, less items to leak.
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Post by magikbus on Apr 29, 2017 15:21:54 GMT -8
Welding would be the problem. If I could get the large nut that actually screws onto the tank in Steel, that would work great, but it's aluminum.
Stan
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Post by magikbus on Apr 29, 2017 15:55:31 GMT -8
OK, I gotcha now! The small piece that is shown actually holding the two gaskets I made is made out of steel. It's quite thin though and welding a piece of brake line to it would be ..... problematic. I wouldn't want to ruin it because searching around I find that particular piece of equipment seems to be unobtainable. I wonder if JB weld would hold it securely enough in a gasoline environament?
I'm not worried about the brass fittings leaking, I've got some wonderful paste made exactly for the purpose of preventing leaks from threaded fittings in gasoline environments. Brass is also is not in any way rust prone, being at the bottom of the gas tank where water hangs out.
Maybe there's some compression fitting that might also fit brake line. Hmmm.
I'm still looking for a suitable 12V. gas line solenoid to fit in the system, which will be hooked up to my "Armageddon" electrical shutoff. Preferably very close to the fittings shown in the second picture.
Stan
FYI Nascar mandates there be no more than an aggregate total of 12 inches of flexible rubber fuel line in one of their race cars.
Spelling mistakes left included for the amusement of the reader.
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Post by Volktales on Apr 29, 2017 20:09:05 GMT -8
I have seen one of those dual fuel tank solenoids used for that purpose. It isn't really how I would do it, but seemed to work. Sure I saw some threads on theSamba about this very topic. Replacement fittings for the fuel tank spigot are often steel instead of alloy... Usually the spigot kits come with one sealing washer. Some kits also come with the original type fuel filter/strainer that installs inside the tank above the fitting. I would assume the alloy rim of the fuel filter also acts as a seal when installing the fitting. My own experience with these is after initial tightening, recheck after a while and crank it on a bit more. My Ghia needed these to stop seeping.
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Post by stude on Apr 30, 2017 6:06:22 GMT -8
Did I read somewhere that the new car oxygen sensor are the same threads maybe you could find a bung or whatever they are called and build off that.
Terry
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Post by magikbus on Apr 30, 2017 17:36:11 GMT -8
Thanks for all the replies guys. Very much appreciated. Russ, you say there are kits for the bus? I saw a kit for the bug including a long sweeping curving tube out the bottom. Do you think it would fit the bus?
Stan
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Post by Volktales on Apr 30, 2017 20:40:30 GMT -8
I am probably thinking of bug related fittings. Your picture looks similar. Not sure if they are interchangeable....
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Post by 1hotvw on Apr 30, 2017 20:51:40 GMT -8
stan what i was saying is not to use your current steel fitting, but getting a steel washer to fit inside your large nut and make the length you need from tubing of correct size and weld the tubing to the new made to fit steel washer.
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Post by PICTUP on May 1, 2017 9:16:03 GMT -8
stan what i was saying is not to use your current steel fitting, but getting a steel washer to fit inside your large nut and make the length you need from tubing of correct size and weld the tubing to the new made to fit steel washer. This sounds like the best option to me. That way too you can just put a bend in the tubing and get rid of all those fittings, which, as Boris points out, each have a chance of leaking. |
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Post by tony on May 1, 2017 10:08:16 GMT -8
Make sure you weld the tubing to the washer with an appropriate length of tubing rising vertically into the tank so all the rust soup that forms in the tank doesn't clog up your line!
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Post by magikbus on May 1, 2017 14:20:44 GMT -8
A great suggestion although I'd sub brazing instead of welding. Haven't done a lot of smaller stuff with the latter, but I'm pretty good at the former. Do you think brazing would hold it?
Stan
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Post by 1hotvw on May 1, 2017 19:10:34 GMT -8
brazing should be fine.or find a friend with a mig.
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Post by PICTUP on May 24, 2017 14:01:42 GMT -8
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Post by magikbus on May 24, 2017 15:03:27 GMT -8
Thanks Don, I've emailed for shipping costs.
Stan
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