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Post by busaddict on Jun 1, 2017 18:14:50 GMT -8
If you're like me you probably watch for the appropriate oil for your air-cooled VW to go on sale at Canadian Tire. Looking for opinions and suggestions. To get the ball rolling, here's an inexpensive offering, regular price $16.99 Size: 5L (1.32 gallons) I think I used the 1 litre size of this one when I couldn't find any singles of Rotella T 15W-40 Diesel Oil to top up my engine. Wow, it's almost 2 years since started this thread on synthetic oil miacvw.proboards.com/thread/443/synthetic-oil-bus
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Post by tony on Jun 1, 2017 18:36:48 GMT -8
I worked for Herb Biehler at Herb's automotive in 1981 for six months and he only used 30w Duckhams on all the air cooled vw's.
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Post by PICTUP on Jun 1, 2017 18:47:59 GMT -8
I worked for Herb Biehler at Herb's automotive in 1981 for six months and he only used 30w Duckhams on all the air cooled vw's. Wow, how do you remember back that far Tony?? Should rename you Sparky...fits on so many levels... We had a discussion about this very subject at the last meeting. The only reason I know that straight 30W used to be the preference is that it is still the preference of Northwest Connecting Rod's owner Jerry Koepping. I think he was probably building engines in the 80's. I have always used 20W50 but it there were some new opinions on that at the meeting... I dunno, the brand Rotella just sounds like some sort of ringworm, I like Castrol. I do run a straight 30W in my Shorty because I had it on hand from my 62 SC so I figured I'd just use it up(I wasn't planning on keeping it at that point...)
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Post by busaddict on Jun 1, 2017 19:11:14 GMT -8
Perhaps this sums it up, " Single-grade engine oils, such as SAE 30, were formerly recommended for use in VW engines because of the unreliable quality of the then available multi-grade engine oils." from: www.vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html#grade
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Post by mitchy965 on Jun 1, 2017 20:32:46 GMT -8
I worked for Herb Biehler at Herb's automotive in 1981 for six months and he only used 30w Duckhams on all the air cooled vw's. ha! I to worked for Herb (didnt last 6 months thou). he had me in a honda civic on the hoist doing 60mph while he "resurfaced" the front rotors with a hand file!! as long as that certified oil has a high zddp level (most diesel oils have triple the anti wear package than most gas engine oil) I feel its a good choice. i will pay a bit more for the rotella T just because I researched the hell out of it and have used it for so long. one of the things that make synthetic oils so good for water cooled cars is why i avoid them for the aircooled . the latent heat transfer of dino oil allows for faster absorption and rejection of the heat than the synthetic which by design doesn't absorb the heat as fast.
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Post by tony on Jun 1, 2017 21:06:37 GMT -8
We'll have to trade some Herb (enter wisecracks here ) stories sometime!
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Post by Volktales on Jun 1, 2017 21:16:33 GMT -8
I would say that "What oil to use in my VW" is one of the most controversial topics on the Samba with many different opinions vigorously defended. I can tell you this much. At one time strait 30 weight was the recommended oil, but this was before multi-grades became the norm for most cars. Some still are adamant that this is the ONLY oil for your air-cooled VW. When my bosses started working at the VW dealer in the '70's, the oil of choice recommended by the dealer was now 20W50 and this was what was put in thousands of VWs still in service. This was still true into the '90's although things were changing in the oil industry. As Mitchy mentioned ZDDP levels were being dropped in many oils, but still remained somewhat in 15W40, which was usually marketed as a diesel oil. Early in the 2000's this became the new recommended air-cooled oil because of its additives. As with many things in life, the schools of thought have changed again. Many who are building modified VW engines are now recommending thinner oils then in the past. This is due primarily to the belief that thicker oils can cause the oil pressure relief valve to not operate correctly, and cause the oil to bypass the cooler. The result is overheating, which of course nobody wants. This is compounded on modified engines which often have higher volume oil pumps. Anyway the current school of thought for some is to run 10W30, usually with some sort of ZDDP type additive. I ran 20W50 for decades in my stock air-cooleds with no issue. My Ghia is running 10W30 as it is modified, but it is having overheating issues... but unlikely to do with my choice of oil... We at the shop currently use 15W40 in all customer air-cooleds unless the owners have a preference. If it doesn't run hot, use whatever makes you happy...
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Post by Volktales on Jun 1, 2017 21:19:18 GMT -8
My now retired boss, Bill, once worked for Herb as well. Again many stories, all of them quite bad. It did not end well for Herb...
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Post by mitchy965 on Jun 1, 2017 21:35:32 GMT -8
some really good reading on the subject can be found at "Bob the oil guy" and of course at the SAE website (recommended for stormy cold nights at home when there is nothing on TV.
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Post by Wongai on Jun 2, 2017 7:54:40 GMT -8
Thanks fro your thoughts guys. I'm stoked to learn more about oil, but now I really want to find out what happened to Herb! Cliffhanger! B
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Post by tony on Jun 2, 2017 10:53:14 GMT -8
I remember one time , Herb was supposed to check out a rough running I think it was one of those crappy '79 Mustangs with a 4 banger and the girl was supposed to pick it up at noon , needless to say it turned into a week before he even looked at it and he kept putting her off and that he couldn't seem to get it running right. Finally after many many calls by her he said it's running a bit better but when she had time , to bring it back. So while she was on her way to pick it up he started the car and put a heavy wrench on the gas pedal and left it to redline+++ for 5 or 10 minutes by itself and when the girl got to the shop he graciously only charged her for 4 hrs. labour and said he wouldn't charge for materials , I don't recall her returning to the shop....
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Post by Volktales on Jun 2, 2017 17:27:14 GMT -8
Herb had a lot of issues in his life. He often kept a gun at work, and threatened to use it. One day he did when he "offed" himself in front of his wife... Apparently his last words where something like "I'll show you!" Sad.
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Post by 68IIIbuggy on Jun 3, 2017 20:23:54 GMT -8
I noticed last time I was in Can Tire that they now sell a ZDDP additive. I'm going to give it a try at my next oil change. I've been running 10w30 in my 1600 T1 engine for several years now. The theory is that the relief valve opens at pressures above 40 psi, sending hot oil directly to the bearings, so a thinner oil will result in better cooling. Apparently this is even more important when running an earlier engine with the smaller oil galleys. I haven't done any experimentation with heavier and light oils, but so far I'm pretty happy with the 10w30. I still have 8-10psi oil pressure at hot idle.
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Post by busaddict on Jun 6, 2017 18:21:12 GMT -8
Castrol in the 5 litre jug is on sale at Canadian Tire for "$19.19" in several multi-grades. (Regular Price: $31.99) Now should I go for the 10w40 or 20w50? On sale until Thursday June 8th, 2017.
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Post by busaddict on Jun 7, 2017 21:14:55 GMT -8
I've been running the 10w40 for a long time, so why mess with success
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