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Post by magikbus on Sept 13, 2020 17:14:41 GMT -8
OK, after an engine test went fine for the first 10 min, then started producing rough idle and black smoke, I unplugged each choke, then hooked up a wire to the positive terminal on the battery and briefly touched the right hand choke terminal, nice brisk clicking indicating it was working fine. However the left choke produced no sound at all. I attempted to tap on the choke body with the handle of a screw driver with no effect. Rather than use a "bigger hammer" with possible negative effect, are there any suggestions out there before I take the carb apart?
Stan
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Post by Volktales on Sept 13, 2020 19:30:28 GMT -8
Chokes don't click. The electro-magnetic idle circuit shut off solenoids do. Did you have the original choke wires disconnected completely? If you want to check choke action, make sure they are cold, step on the throttle once to "set" them. Then hook up your temporary wire to the choke and watch the choke plate. It should slowly open up wide in a minute or so...
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Post by magikbus on Sept 14, 2020 7:22:30 GMT -8
Oky Doky will do. tnx.
Stan
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Post by magikbus on Sept 16, 2020 20:01:19 GMT -8
OK so the electric chokes worked as promised, slowly opening so that after a couple of minutes they were mostly open. The problem is that when that happened the engine ran like crap, stalling, back firing when given gas etc etc. Made me think I'd forgotten a vacuum hose but I've already checked them "all". Yah right! I'll try and post a pic of my distributor (vacuum can) to let you tell me I'm an idiot and let me know where that little nipple facing the front should be hooked up to. Stan There are two vacuum hose attach points, one is hooked up to a black hose just like a good boy, they other is hanging out in the breeze like a bad boy. So the question is, where does the bad boy belong?  |
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Post by Volktales on Sept 16, 2020 20:14:11 GMT -8
Your pic ain't working. So you must have a dual advance/retard distributor. The "retard" side which is closest to the distributor body must me attached to a manifold vacuum source. This means there must be vacuum present when the engine is idling to this hose. This will be a spigot on the left carburetor that connects to a tiny port below the throttle plate. The "advance" side of the vacuum canister is away from the distributor body. The hose that attaches to this will go to a spigot on the left carb that does not have any vacuum to it at idle, but does when the throttle is opened slightly. The spigot connects to a tiny hole in the carburetor body above the throttle plate.
I don't have one of these carbs in front of me at the moment... My red bus would show this, but it is up at Reagh's museum. You should go to the open house this Sunday by the way...
The stock dual carbs need those distributor hoses hooked up to idle and perform properly. If the retard does not work, the idle will be too high. If the advance does not work, the performance will be very sluggish. Check for other vacuum leaks while you are in there...
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Post by magikbus on Sept 17, 2020 19:55:42 GMT -8
OK let's try another picture. Taking your advice Russ, I took another pic of the solex carb. Question. Could the red arrow be pointing at the vacuum source for the spiggot on the vacuum can closest to the carb body? I believe the green arrow points to the hose that goes to the spiggot on the other (far) side of the vacuum can. Am I making any sense here? Stan  |
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Post by Volktales on Sept 17, 2020 21:37:08 GMT -8
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Post by magikbus on Sept 18, 2020 7:15:20 GMT -8
Wow, thanks Russ, that's exactly my engine's set up.
Stan
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