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Post by Rob Sannes on Feb 28, 2021 13:16:49 GMT -8
Mark one thing is the sump plate nuts only get 5ft lbs of tourq and as you can imagine very easy to over do it. I have a 20 year old cheap Chinese chrome sump plate on my motor with a drain plug no screen a full flow and a 1.5 ltr deep sump.
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Post by Volktales on Feb 28, 2021 20:16:24 GMT -8
So you're draining the oil via the external filter? No. What Dave means it is unnecessary to remove the sump plate when doing an oil service, as the full flow filter is replaced at oil change time. This is what is done on Type 4 style engines. They include a removable sump plate as well, but is not required to remove it during oil service. You are still going to need the actual drain plug style sump plate, to make those oil changes less messy. VW removed the plug in later sump plates to force you to actually remove the whole plate to clean the strainer assembly. In reality it was probably money saving for VW to delete that plate. I would just find a good used German plate with drain plug, and be done with it... Your 1500 engine should have one... If not I am sure I have a spare or two...
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Post by CrazyBrit on Feb 28, 2021 20:46:42 GMT -8
I gave that engine to Reagh. It turned out to be a 1600SP in the end. I think it's realistically more of a boat anchor. I'll keep my eye open for a plate at this year's swap meets...
So when you folks are running external filters do you eliminate the VW strainer? I'd left it in place on the basis that it wasn't doing any harm, but was still cleaning it at oil change time. If I eliminate it, then I can use a very thin smear of Permatex around the plate to prevent weeping.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Feb 28, 2021 21:26:58 GMT -8
Some do some don't. A full flow does the cleaning. It can save big stuff from going through the oil pump but if you got big pieces you have big problems anyway. I think Gene Berg said it was not needed when running a full flow and could cause some restrictions at high rpm so I felt like its good enough for me and left it out. In your application if you want to I don't think it will hurt to leave it in.
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Post by owdlvr on Mar 1, 2021 15:37:05 GMT -8
lol. Yup, and I left mine in and still rev to 7500 on one of my engines. I use 'em to keep big chunks going through the oil pump. The rally bug oil pump is irreplaceable...and well, it's habit for everything else.
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Post by 1hotvw on Mar 1, 2021 20:53:14 GMT -8
what Gene Berg says mostly applied to drag motors. always run the strainer.a buds story, who removed it lost his motor when the rocker clip and spring washer came off, went thro the pump and into the oil galleries.bearings etc, so this could have been a small repair on the rocker shaft instead of a big fail.yes solid rockers can help on non stock motors,VW liked to save money soo if they thought good to go with out one and save a 5er on each motor they would have not used one.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Apr 13, 2021 10:10:06 GMT -8
What products do you guys recommend for external oil lines please?
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 13, 2021 14:23:30 GMT -8
I use -8 AN fittings and hose 1/2 inch id. cloth covered hydrolic hose is a little stiff but it has worked well for me in the past. You can get a nice hose and fittings at new line in Nanaimo but may be a little exspensive. I have been thinking about some off of Amazon "Evil Energy" brand has kits with fittings for less than 100.00 seems reasonable it's all black looks stealthy. Good Luck
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Post by CrazyBrit on Apr 13, 2021 19:10:21 GMT -8
The crappy quality Dansk hi flow, high price heat exchangers are in and the shiny new VS exhaust is bolted up. It was quite a bit more work than I expected, because of course aftermarket parts don't like to fit to other aftermarket parts. I think that the faults lie primarily with the heat exchangers, but have no proof of that! I had some issues with the upper front manifold nuts on the heaters. I'm now waiting to go back to work in Victoria to go shopping at KMS tools so that I can pick up a set of S type / obstruction wrenches to I can tighten them up. I can't get my straight wrenches in there. I chose to fit the heaters with the engine installed, because they foul on the front end of the engine bay during installation. I'm running late model style heaters rather than the early stale air type and they don't fit well in an early bus. I'm also waiting on a parts order from CIP that should have been here today. It has my new fuel pump flange, coil and handbrake cables. My old handbrake cables were too short for this conversion, so I am changing to the slightly longer 64-67 cables. I hope that they're long enough... I hope to have it ready to start by the weekend, but haven't decided if I should go with a thermostatically controlled external cooler yet. I'm on the fence due to price, but hey, what's another $400 when you're in this deep?
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 13, 2021 20:44:54 GMT -8
Man it's always somthing. For larger exhaust I have switched to a brass nut that has a 11mm head. Cip1 sells several with 10,11,12,mm heads. I also have ground down and bent cheap wrenches and sockets to help fit in to the tight spots. The oil cooler is not a bad idea. As you know I have one on my car. I tested the switch and it activates at 180 ish so it does make feel like I have a extra layer of security. As far as budgets go I do my homework set a base line double it and add 20% to cover you know extra tools supplies or professional help haha. Good thing we Love our old VW's
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Post by owdlvr on Apr 13, 2021 21:59:55 GMT -8
Easy: Russell fittings and lines in -8AN from Lordco Cheaper: Performance World fittings and lines, ordered (in Canadian dollars) at www.performance-world.com/Assembly is a bit of a trick the first time, I can walk you through it but will be out of town so can't stop by to show you. You'll want a set of aluminum soft jaws: www.performance-world.com/Vise-Jaws-p/784000.htm and a good selection of imperial wrenches. 13/16, 7/8, 1", 15/16 off the top of my head. Each line should have a swivel end fitting...unless you hate yourself. Feel free to give me a call if you want to talk it through. 604 849 0076
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Post by CrazyBrit on Apr 14, 2021 17:55:21 GMT -8
Thanks Gents
Dave, I checked out the Performance World hoses. It seems that most are limited to 150C. Which ones do you use specifically?
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Post by CrazyBrit on Apr 14, 2021 19:21:40 GMT -8
Rob, do you have a bypass on your cooler, or does the oil run through continuously?
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 14, 2021 20:51:28 GMT -8
Rob, do you have a bypass on your cooler, or does the oil run through continuously? It runs through continuously in addition to the stock dog house cooler, only the fan is thermostatically controlled.
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Post by Volktales on Apr 14, 2021 21:31:29 GMT -8
You custom guys have all the fun...
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