Replacing a Type 2 Bus Clutch Cable

[busaddict]

Bus clutch cable replacement question:

The clutch cable on a Type 2 bus usually fails at the rear trans-axle end. Mine has snapped at the front (pedal) end. The usual procedure is to tape a strong piece of string to the rear end of the old cable and drag it through to the front, then tape the string to the new cable and pull it back though.  My question, can I cut the cable cleanly at the front, tape the new cable to the old, and pull the new cable through to the back. I thought this might save me a step and a piece of string.  

[Volktales]

Actually you don't need to do that at all. Just pull the old one out and push the new one through. And most of the ones I have seen actually broke at the pedal end, including mine...

[busaddict]

Good to know, thanks Russ, couldn't find any pedal end videos. Mine seemed to be catching on the clevis pin, looks like it was going on for a long time.

[PICTUP]

Mine snapped at the pedal end. Turns out that I had put the lever on the wrong way. The lever was bending the cable right after the swaged end due to lever contacting the swage itself. It work-hardened the cable strands until they couldn't take it anymore...

miacvw.proboards.com/thread/4/1970-savannah-beige-deluxe-shawnigan?page=2

[busaddict]

Successfully changed the clutch cable on the bus, no string so I ended up using a thin but strong piece of gift wrap ribbon which worked very nicely. I think I could have also pushed it through without it. One thing which stopped me briefly was the fact that the Clevis pin had partially worn through and could no longer be removed. Once I figured what was up I removed the whole pin assembly from the pedal and got it out with with a hole punch. However, the hole that the Clevis pin goes into had worn into more of an oval which I believe was the cause of the pin wear. I sanded it out, made it as smooth as possible and applied some grease to it before reassembly. Added some lithium grease to the cable and the interior of the new Bowden tube. It works, feels smooth. Thanks for your input.

UPDATE: You can order a NEW VWC-211-721-319-C - CLUTCH CABLE LEVER / HOOK - BUS 67-79 From CIP1. That's the hole where the Clevis pin can wear into an oval, get caught, and subsequently break your clutch cable. And they're on sale! www.cip1.ca/vwc-211-721-319-c/

[bobc]

Just put a cable in my 71 Westy yesterday. A while back I was adjusting the clutch and I was unknowingly turning the whole cable causing it to snap. There were just a few strands holding , so luckily it happened in my shop. I should have ordered the clevis pin and the swivel lever along with the cable as both of them were just about worn through. I ended up filling them in with some weld. After drilling out the hole and a,bit of grinding,they will hopefully last as long as the cable . Snows finally gone (most of it) so I had it out on the road for the first run of the season.

Bob

[busaddict]

Good that you could improvise Bob, I heard a story, perhaps from someone here. A Bus owner blew a clutch cable while camping, went to a hardware store and bought a piece of clothes line which he modified to fit. It kept working even after he got home.

[bobc]

Ya I've been on some fun camping trips like that.

B

[chickenwing]

A few months ago I was suddenly experiencing some difficulty shifting and needed to tighten up the clutch cable via the wing nut at the end of the cable near the transmission. I messaged Don and he suggested I replace the clutch cable as it was maybe a bit of a red flag as after driving my bus for a few years without issue that it suddenly needed adjusting. Today I finally got around to changing it. I'm so glad I did! As you can see in the photos, the cable was a couple strands away from snapping. That would've been a big bummer to deal with on my upcoming road trips! The bowden tube had a crack/kink in it (exactly where the cable fraying was) and needed replacing too. The clevis pin had also seen better days and actually required some leverage and a few taps with a hammer to remove. I already had the new clutch cable ready to go but needed to call upon Mark at Adria Imports for a new clevis pin and bowden tube. 

The job was relatively easy but very messy! Grease (old and new) everywhere. The only section that seemed tricky when considering re-threading the new cable into place was just back from the clutch pedal until the entrance of the tube that carries the cable way back to the transmission. So I used the old fishing line trick to make sure I threaded the new cable correctly for that short section only. 

[PICTUP]

Nice job Claire! Any plans of making your way to the Island at all this year?

[busaddict]

Hey Claire: Nice work, now you have yet another skill which will make you even more self sufficient on trips. I was just checking my clutch cable notes with regard to this thread. I ended up taking it apart again to replace the clutch cable lever/hook which had worn into an oval shape. Getting the cable just right makes a big difference when it comes to smooth shifting.

[chickenwing]

Thanks for the tip! I did inspect the state of the clutch cable lever when I took the clutch apart. It was a little bit rounded but decidedly not that bad. Also I didn't have a replacement part on hand. But I've made a note in my records to replace that part the next time and to order the correct bit next time I put an order in with a parts supplier. As a quick update to this thread, having driven on the new clutch cable for the last month or so, I can happily say the new cable has made a huge difference and I couldn't be happier with the fix!