gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28 
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Post by gregg on Oct 20, 2015 10:25:46 GMT -8
Hello. I need advice on a new engine for a 1968 VW Westy Bus. The old engine was pulled and sold prior to the restoration. I am looking at various options: 1) new crate engine (eg. Daryls Engines (USA) ). This would be a 1776 cc with his comment "I would highly recommend a oil deep sump this will help drop oil temp by 25% and I would go with electronic ignition much better spark and dependability....and last serpentine belt system very reliable.". Not a cheap thing, but reviews seem good. 2) engine rebuild locally with some horse power addition. 3) new engine build locally (not rebuild on old block).
I hear Don is a VW whisperer, so if he reads this I can provide a number to call me. Any help from the group on engine cc, trustworthy builders, etc would be great.
i am also wanting to upgrade the drum brakes to disc, I hear brake boosters are needed. If anyone has done this, let me know.
thanks !... Gregg
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Post by mitchy965 on Oct 20, 2015 20:38:38 GMT -8
ok Gregg,heres my reply to your options #1 crate motors from the states are a big gamble(try getting a warranty motor across the border)a deep sump is mandatory in even a stock bus build but it will not lower temps by 25%(B.S.). I always go electronic now as long as its a quality unit(pertronics).a serp belt is an absolute waste of money and does nothing to improve vws design,its just shiny bling shit that makes it hard to find a belt when it shreds on some remote back road out of cel range in the rain(probably in the dark of nite)the factory belt setup is fool proof(almost),simple and works perfectly on millions of acvw (the belt is designed to slip a little if the fan cavitates at high rpm so self regulating). spend that money on something that does improve things(like a full flow filter). #2 to quote gene berg "the best person to build your motor is you!" this stuff isn't rocket science but it does take some skill and tooling to accomplish(what level are you at?). #3 most of the acvw stuff is already decades old and good cores are now a rare find so plan on new parts if a long lasting trouble free engine is your goal. and a PLAN is a must! what truly do you want to end up with? a 68 bay came with a single port,most every modern builds are dual port based.is stock appearing important? or would a 100 ft lbs of torque be more your style.dual carb?single carb? heater boxes or no? lots of options! (i have a few recipes for buses depending on your budget). and that brings us to that painful part,budget!! this(quality) stuff aint cheap, our dollar sucks,shipping is killer(dont buy the locally available Chinese crap) so prepare for some sticker shock. hope this helps
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Post by wcp on Oct 21, 2015 9:56:35 GMT -8
what is your budget? and target hp?
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gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28
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Post by gregg on Oct 21, 2015 10:25:33 GMT -8
Great information. It's nice to talk with people interested in helping. Okay, here is the skinny.... Bought the 68 (my birth year) and hauled it from northern sask to the island. Interior was really good, but typical rust in the lower panels, pillars, nose, cargo floor and floor pans. Got a few quotes and lots of discussion with guys like Shawn Cole. I finally found a good welder and fabricator ( can't stress how crucial that is) and ordered all the metal that we could. We did sand blast it to see where the good metal was!..... I am about 10 hours from being done (8 months so far). We have been seam sealing along the way and will do rust coatings (por15) at a later stage. Next stage is to get this into primer and paint.
Okay, to answer your questions. I want an engine that will reasonably meet the minimum speed limit (no elevation of course). I need something that can climb and deal with the West Coast mountains. I do understand that going slow is part of the Bus culture and more about the journey then the destination. But, I don't see any harm, if possible, of providing a more efficient and CC upgrade. I don't want the engine to breakdown on I5 in L.A. Something reliable is important. My mechanical skills are limited. I can probably fix a basic 1600 engine if it was something small.
My budget is around $5-6k for the engine. I want to do the brakes as well, not sure on this cost or how major the conversion is. Heater box is important as well. I had the rusted heater pipes replaced when the cargo floor was off and engine out. It is a nasty pipe to replace if floor is on (I.e. The one that goes through the cross members and back into the engine compartment).
Does this help to narrow down my options ?
Regards.. Gregg
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gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28
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Post by gregg on Oct 21, 2015 10:39:52 GMT -8
$5-6 k. Was reading about 1776 and 1835 cc dual carb options. Depending on weight of the bus, seemed like acceptable hp to get the job done on most terrain.
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Post by wcp on Oct 21, 2015 11:40:25 GMT -8
that is about right.
are you good with a wrench? (not to be confused with a wench)
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 21, 2015 12:35:59 GMT -8
I don't want the engine to breakdown on I5 in L.A. Something reliable is important. My mechanical skills are limited. I can probably fix a basic 1600 engine if it was something small. Been there, done that…. well sorta. My transmission decided to blow up on the freeway in Palo Alto, Ca in 1988. Limited tools and knowhow had me buy a used trans that got me home, but no third synchro. Heater box is important as well. I had the rusted heater pipes replaced when the cargo floor was off and engine out. It is a nasty pipe to replace if floor is on (I.e. The one that goes through the cross members and back into the engine compartment). Sounds like you have done a lot of work on your Westy! If you have pics I am sure I speak for most people here and it would be great to see them  It also sounds like you are getting some great advice and other things to think about from people in the know on the site. Great to see  Cheers, Don |
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gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28
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Post by gregg on Oct 21, 2015 13:44:35 GMT -8
I prefer wenches to wrenches..... I am a novice/intermediate with a wrench. I can replace alternators, pull out engines, change fuel lines, etc. I couldn't do a rebuild and deal with troubleshooting issues if they arose.
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Post by wcp on Oct 21, 2015 15:23:18 GMT -8
how about building from a long block. all the guess work would be done. you just need to bolt on tin, alt, dist, exhaust, carbs all fun stuff anyway - here is a sample stroker long block (in US, but you get the idea of parts and labour costs) www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1123433if it were me, i'd buy a stroker long block from a reputable builder. Do you know the Vancouver boys? k-roc and Darren over there builds motors in his sleep. here is a sample 2.3L 180hp long block for $6K www.airspeedparts.com/forums/index.php?topic=24160.0 that one had all top-end stuff. i'm sure if you got in touch with him, explained your budget and timelines - you could work something out and walk away a very happy man. |
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gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28
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Post by gregg on Oct 21, 2015 17:09:25 GMT -8
If you provide contact info., I can chat with them. Do they have a good reputation ?
Thanks for the feedback ... Gregg
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Post by PICTUP on Oct 21, 2015 17:09:38 GMT -8
I merged most of your other thread to this thread on this board Gregg. It seemed the best place for members to find the whole discussion. Paul has a great T2 build going and I was remiss in not including him in my recommendations…sorry Paul! If you are really keen to go to the USA, I would recommend NorthWest Connecting Rod in Kent, WA. Jerry Koepping runs the shop and has built air cooled engines for 35 years. Really knows his stuff, has helped me immeasurably, and is an all-round great guy who is true to his word. His number is 1 253 872 4945. |
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Post by wcp on Oct 22, 2015 8:21:43 GMT -8
whoa - i took a look at this thread this am and was thoroughly confused how all this additional stuff was added. thanks Don for merging.
I sent Darren a note on airspeed and you (Gregg) a PM.
if i were not a DIY kind of guy, darren is who i'd give my money to to build a smokin motor.
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gregg
Valve Adjuster
Posts: 28
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Post by gregg on Oct 22, 2015 9:16:11 GMT -8
Thanks guys.. I do prefer to stay in Canada for any engine problems or maintenance work. The U.S. was just a discussion thread, since they have a big turnkey engine market and Samba is full of people with engines. However, I will reach out here and also contact the gentlemen in Kent to discuss. again...really appreciate everyone's help. Keep it coming... |
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Post by mitchy965 on Oct 22, 2015 9:36:42 GMT -8
yep Darrens got a good rep fo sure,however please note the previous ad for the 180hp build went out the door well below cost(he stated for the cost of parts) not that it matters, its not what you need. you need additional low rpm torque,imho ,the best(cheapest)way to do that is by increasing the displacement. do not exceed 78mm stroke for a bus motor.use a stock weight flywheel,full flow oil filter and deep sump keep your ports/valve size on the mild side to match your cam. the more displacement the more the cam you can run with out a rough idle. keep your compression ratio at or near 8-8.5:1(bus) and your exhaust at or under 1.5 inch diameter. a good set of carbs and a vacuum advance or programmable distributor and you have a smooth,reliable, fuel efficient engine with double the power of stock. if you buy the(right!) parts and want to stay on the Island, i can help (schedule permitting)with design and assembly.
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