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Post by Volktales on Nov 26, 2023 20:42:50 GMT -8
So, continuing on... The paint was dry on the generator backing plate so was time to complete the assembly. Until I noticed the fan hub had some damage (as shown on the right hub). That fan nut must have worked loose at some time and the fan dug into the hub assembly. Not great, but I had an undamaged hub in my stash and used that instead. The fan was not too bad, but discovered it had a slight wobble once installed. Might have to replace that too... Next up was FINALLY cleaning off the workbench. Brian came over and together we moved the 1600 for Savannah Beige off the bench, as well as my spare 1600 from a '72 Canadian Custom Beetle. Both these engines were relocated to the big rolling cart that lives in the storage garage. This was the cart I salvaged from the scrap metal bin in the past. I still intend to add another "shelf" to this to get more storage space for engines and heavy things. One of these days... So now it is time to yank that engine out of there. This was the mystery 1500 I installed a few years ago which turned out to run well, but with low compression. My beloved 1600 single port from my original 1970 Beetle will be going back in there and I am looking very forward to that! Given I am stripping all the cooling shrouds from this engine, to transfer to the 1600, I removed more than you usually would before pulling the motor. Makes getting to those upper engine bolts a piece'O'cake! Out it came without too much drama. Have to think about wiring for that gas heater, and where to place the 12 volt voltage regulator as well. Probably going to put it under the back seat like '67 and later Beetles... There is the old 1500 on the jack. Now where to stash that??? Found out the mighty $100 Acura was designed to accommodate Type 1 flat fours. Who woulda thunk it??? As I won't be ever using this again, Reagh will probably find a use for it... Incidentally I have owned that $100 Acura for almost seven years now! Where the hell did that time go??? And there is the B-code 1970 1600 single port, my favourite VW engine. Still needs some cleaning, as you can still see some of the corrosion from the fire over 20 years ago. That squeaky clean bench did not stay that way for long, did it??? Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Nov 26, 2023 21:03:30 GMT -8
Another part of the many jobs being performed on this car include replacing all the lights. This is the last time those pathetic six volt headlights will be turned on. Have new halogen sealed beams to go in that I have had "in stock" for some time... And a bag of every other bulb I need for the car. You will all recognize the heater boxes in the background, but what is that thingy in the foreground??? With the car up on stands, it is time to pull the wheels and see what is going on with the brakes. You would think the brakes would be in perfect shape, as the car has only travelled 2109 miles since the brakes were done. Mind you that was close to a quarter century ago... The problem was the car was suffering from dragging brakes. This turned out to be the front brakes, and the wheel cylinders are the culprit. Given the car sat around for so long, the cylinders are seizing up. I will take a look to see if they are recoverable before replacing them, because I can't help myself...
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Post by Volktales on Nov 26, 2023 21:16:19 GMT -8
While up at Reagh's, I was digging around his '67 Beetle parts car again. Actually literally was "digging" away the moss and dirt while verifying the wiring connections to the original Webasto gas heater. Most cars that have survived today are missing the parts and wiring that make up the system, but Reagh's car still had this stuff intact despite the decay around it. Parts cars make great reference material when restoring other VWs. Note the cross bar that supports the rear seat at the bottom of the above picture. It has little tangs welded to it that clamp the gas heater wiring in position. Something I did not know, and I do like to know little things like this for sure. I also learned VW kept changing where they mounted components. The main controller is in the engine compartment on '66's, right next to the battery as shown above in '67's, and I think the '68 versions where not in that location exactly. Also where the holes were drilled in the body to accommodate the wiring varies as well. As does the style and location of the gas heater warning light. That moss growing INSIDE the car is quite lush and green, isn't it? I think that I will modify the original six volt wiring for the gas heater to allow the various components to stay in the 1966 locations. All the electrical parts will be replaced with the 12 volt versions, and I will recondition one of the 12 volt combustion chamber assemblies (it has a riveted plate on it which shows the model number and voltage). Because I can't help myself...
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Post by Volktales on Nov 26, 2023 21:39:03 GMT -8
Although the gas heater might be somewhat tricky, I think I have what I need to make it function. The radio is another story... The radio cabinet contains several potential candidates... This Motorola is era correct, 12 volts, works nicely, and is cosmetically excellent. But is AM only, and that sucks. This was the radio I formerly had in the Ghia for awhile. It fits, it works, has FM too. But not what I really want... This Blaupunkt was a lucky find, and it works too. The design is '70's however, and this one is earmarked for Savannah Beige. This one is a neat European Grundig that cost me a whopping $2 at a multi-family garage sale in the '80's. The same sale also produced a working Eberspacher gas heater that was transferred into my old green '70 Beetle daily back in those days. Heater was $10, maybe, and worked great. Sadly the Grundig does not. I wouldn't mind using it in Savannah Beige, but we will see... Getting back to the '66 however, the above radio is the one I would REALLY like to use. A correct 1966 Blaupunkt, with switchable power pack that can operate on 6 volt/12 volt/positive ground/negative ground. This was a VERY expensive radio when new and is a US spec Frankfurt model. The faceplate indicates it was originally installed in a early Type 3. However all these vintage Blaupunkts have multiple faceplates that accommodate all the popular European cars of the era. And naturally I have a couple of those in my stash. It pays to hoard, you know... Incidentally these Frankfurt US radios were the most common Porsche radio of the era with a specific face plate. Restored versions are very pricey. This one is pretty sad shape, but what do you expect for a $20 swapmeet find. The previous owner said it worked fine, but that was probably 30 years ago before going into damp storage. It is currently in many pieces, but hopefully will be working again...
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Post by Volktales on Dec 10, 2023 22:33:31 GMT -8
Sadly diddly squat has been accomplished on this. My lovely wife has been away for awhile, and I have been cooking for the students everyday. Takes up most my time once again, so not much progress on any project is guaranteed until she returns (late this week). Looking forward to getting lots done during the Christmas break for sure!
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Post by Volktales on Jan 1, 2024 20:03:52 GMT -8
Sooo, did I get lots and lots done on this??? Well I did buy myself a Christmas present. I have wanted one of these for some time. The main reason was for future Corvair engine/transmission removal, but will try it out on this Beetle. The jack is not stellar Chinese quality, but then what do you expect from Crappy Tire... So time to get that 1600 dressed up again, with all the original 1300 cooling tin. Most is identical... This piece was not, though. As I had used the 1970 style oil filler assembly, this lower piece would not fit. So looked in the stash, and found this grubby prize. That is "gooder"! And here it is in place. Crisis averted... Ended up repainting the 24 year old muffler, and installing what I could before it is ready for reinstallation. Thought I would see if it would still run. Fired right up on the bench, and the oil pressure light went out which was nice... Now onto other things... Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 1, 2024 20:19:49 GMT -8
Started off doing some lights. Time to swap all 6 volt units, for the 12 volt versions. Started off straightforward enough. Had to repair a failing terminal end in the left tailight, and squeeze some contacts a bit tighter, but this was not hard. Then it was time to remove those headlight assemblies. Nope! They have stuck themselves to the fender like you would not believe. Sprayed Moovit in there to hopefully loosen things up, but they have not co-operated at all so far. So I moved onto other things before throwing a tantrum... Looked for something easy, and this is what beckoned. Changing a speedo is a piece of cake, right? Getting the old one out was not an issue. Replacing the bulbs and holders was. Why? Notice what is missing in the picture of the bulb holder??? Not the greatest picture, but you can see that the contact tab was missing in the centre hole of the light holder assembly (this is the MPH speedo being replaced). I had so much fun reassembling the KM speedo, that there is no way I am going to take it apart again to fix this. The solution is to drill out that rivet and take the contacts from this broken bulb holder that I had. A bit of drill action, and the parts were removed... You can see the broken contact missing from the one on the right... And there we are. No reason why this won't work just fine and dandy. Fiddly, though. Took waaaay longer then it should have, but looks good in place. It had better work as good as it looks... The replacement dimmer relay is now in place as well. As usual VW diddled with the wiring a bit for no obvious reason, but I think it should work out ok. Next up is pulling out the radio, hazard switch, wiper switch, and wiper motor/transmission assembly. Now what could possibly go wrong with any of this??? Stay tuned...
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Post by 1hotvw on Jan 1, 2024 23:42:06 GMT -8
i got a similar jack, but i made a wooden pad that fits across both of those rubber pads, full contact with an engine bottom.
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Post by Volktales on Jan 7, 2024 21:17:45 GMT -8
It's ripping and tearing time! All of this had to come out to access the wiper motor. Well the hazard light didn't, but that came out for other reasons... The wiper motor/transmission assembly is a pretty tight squeeze on the '66 due in part to that centre defroster vent. But it did come out eventually... The unit out on the bench. The motor itself was swapped for the '67 12 volt unit, and the wiper switch was replaced with the correct 2 speed '67 part. Rewiring things was easy enough, although an extra ground wire is used on the '67 switch (something that should have been done on earlier cars). Note my friend Terry was over and we did the "time-machine" Cokes again. I drank out of the 69 year old bottle, and Terry used the 86 year old version. Think about that for a second. Wonder who took the first swig out of that 1938 bottle, and were they aware that the VW 38 series prototypes were on the road in Germany... This is of UTMOST importance when installing the replacement wiper motor. Absolutely do NOT install the wiper arms until you test the motor and make SURE the parking mechanism works properly, and the spindles stop in the correct position. I have seen the results when people do not do this and it is not pretty... Something else of note is the above picture. This was with the old wiper motor and radio still in place. Note that the wiring from the wiper motor goes to the switch (not visible in this picture). In this case the wiring was routed over the top of the wiper transmission to the switch which is in behind. This is not the way to do it, as the wiring could rub against the wiper linkage as the motor runs. I made this error over 20 years ago, but nothing happened as the car was never driven in the rain and the wipers were never used. The wiring is now running under the linkage to the switch and is out of harms way... Another thing to note is the hazard light switch in the centre of this picture. Note those three little tiny protrusions around the centre of the switch. Those are actually the grounding points in the switch, to allow the bulb in the knob to light up correctly when in operation. VW did not put much paint on the back of the dashboard when these cars were new, and those grounding points poked through the paint when the switch was originally tightened. When the car is restored however, that paint on the back of the dash is much better and those little nubs won't poke through the paint. I carefully removed some paint in that area, so it now works properly... After a lot of screwing around, the Motorola fit nicely in place. I will have to go with this radio until my friend Adrien can try to fix the ailing Blaupunkt that I want to use... And FINALLY got those headlights to release from the fenders without damage. It took two of us to get them off, but finally they let go. And no obvious reason why they were stuck... Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 7, 2024 21:31:50 GMT -8
And the radio even works!
The wipers work fine as well. Tried the signals and hazard lights, but that is a big fail. Suspect is the dreaded flasher relay, but more tests will be done first. Also it appears several of the instrument panel bulbs that I thought were good, are not... More stuff to troubleshoot...
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Post by stude on Jan 11, 2024 13:51:45 GMT -8
Hey Russ wanted to warn you that motor cycle jack you bought yourself for Christmas it hangs up on the vw engine when lowering it I have the same one and the bar for the dogs gets hung up on muffler at the most crucial time happened to me twice once resulting in a dent in the apron you have to remove the release bar as that is what it hangs up on I have gone back to the floor jack because you can rock that although I would like to learn to use the cycle jack it has a good angle to get the motor in. Sooo, did I get lots and lots done on this??? Well I did buy myself a Christmas present. I have wanted one of these for some time. The main reason was for future Corvair engine/transmission removal, but will try it out on this Beetle. The jack is not stellar Chinese quality, but then what do you expect from Crappy Tire...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 11, 2024 20:17:08 GMT -8
Thanks for the heads-up, Terry. I will remove the lock bar before using it. Never thought about the "rocking" aspect of it either. We will have a go and see what the verdict is...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 14, 2024 20:48:28 GMT -8
Sooo, it was time to break down and order some new parts for the '66. At this point, the ONLY part I had bought was the new 12 volt battery. That changed after these parts arrived... This small box contained many required goodies including front wheel cylinders, dash bulbs, spare two-piece points, a 12 volt sticker, and the most important item, a expensive reproduction flasher unit. The flasher unit was made by Wolfsburg West, and is of very nice quality. I did pop it open to have a lookie inside and you can see the differences. The original Hella unit is chock full of three big relays, and many resistors and capacitors. The replacement is much simplified, with smaller solid state components and I think even an IC chip inside. The only disappointment to me is why make it blue instead of black? I think I read somewhere the early factory units were blue, but I might be wrong about that. There was a solution to this problem however... Yup. This was such an accurate reproduction, that the original Hella black casing fit perfectly around the new components! You know that pleased me... And it was nice to wire it up to the factory terminals, and watch it work perfectly! Even that troublesome one year only flasher switch worked correctly, and powered up all the hazard lights. The original '67 nine-pin relay that I installed only partially worked, and it was not going to be easy to fix it. The original had circuitry that would measure the current flow to the signal lights, and would stop the dash indicator from flashing if a signal bulb was burnt out. A neat idea to warn the car owner, but in fact was not reliable even when these cars were relatively new. When the system failed, the dash indicator would flash once when signaling a turn, then go dark. There was a rewiring hack around this back in the day, and my car had been converted in that way. Everything is ok now with the new relay so order in the world is now restored... Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 14, 2024 21:15:06 GMT -8
Next up was trying to find a way to fix the license plate light bulb holder. This worked intermittently in the past, and it was time to find out why. First problem was the unit all fell apart due to a failed rivet in the bulb contacts. This had been "fixed" in the past by me with a screw, but this did not last in the long term. This time the rivet remains were fully drilled out, and a very small brass machine screw and nuts were installed to attach everything. The tricky part was what to use for the necessary insulators where the bolt would pass through the housing body. The bolt would have 12 volts on it with the light on, and could not short to the housing. When confronted with something like this, I just look through my various junk and see what might work. In this case a cupped plastic washer from a long ago parted-out typewriter worked just fine. Combine that with a grommet and a plastic bathroom mirror mounting, and it worked just fine and dandy... Note that once again VW cheaped out, and did not provide a separate ground wire for this bulb. You can see where I carefully scraped paint away on the main license plate housing, to allow for the bulb holder to ground properly. Would this finally work reliably??? Sure it did. About time, too. Now about those headlights... Swapping over the 6 volt park lights and main sealed beams was quite easy, and none of those retainer springs jumped out and got me. The only thing you need to do is line up the sealed beams correctly in the holders, and install the retainers in the proper alignment. This is not hard at all, but you would be amazed at how many people out there get this totally wrong. A pet peeve of mine is to see headlights installed sideways or on an angle... Now for the next project, was what to do about the headlight retainer fasteners and bushings? I was missing the bushings, and forgot to order new ones with the other parts. Again a look around my stash of junk revealed this item, one of those old kitchen cabinet door retainer thingys. Those rollers look just about perfect for the job... And you just know when a part like this has made in Japan on it, it must be the same era of the Beetle... I drilled out the centre of the bushings slightly, but that was it. Worked out perfectly, and if you didn't see it here, you would have never known... So what next??? I will be installing this sticker in the door jamb, like was original on Beetles starting from '67 until around 1970. Why do I have two of them? The one on the left is the one I just bought, and my memory of them was that they had rounded edges. I managed to find another one I knew I had stashed someplace, and you can see it is of better quality. Will put it on once I research the exact location it should be placed. Because I can't help myself... It is soooo nice to have bright properly operating lights once again... Compare the old 6 volt glow-worms... Muuuch better! Should have done this decades ago... Could barely see the instruments in the dark in the past. Why did I put up with six volts for so long??? Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jan 14, 2024 21:39:23 GMT -8
So the next project is figuring out the gas heater situation once and for all. On the left is the only literature I could ever find on the Webasto heaters for these cars. This manual is available on TheSamba, but is written in German. Over 20 years ago I laboriously translated it word by word using an early translating program on my first computer. What a pain in the arse that was and I am sure there is an app nowadays that could do it in minutes. The other problem is this manual only covers the original version that was designed for the 1965 model year VWs. This manual is only accurate for that year as things changed somewhat in 1966. The big difference was that the '65 versions had a dash mounted knob with the indicator light built in. This knob allowed for two different temperature settings and was dropped for '66 as realistically everyone ran them on high only. Instead of the knob below the radio, a tiny indicator light was added to the left top of the speedometer. Things changed quite a bit in 1967 however... The new 12 volt time controller (the device at the top of the picture) was wired somewhat differently then the earlier 6 volt versions. The same is true of the lower temperature controller. These two devices work with each other to keep the heater safely running. In reality many of these heaters were modified to run with the temperature controller partially deactivated to allow the heaters to run much longer than designed. In the prairies these heaters simply could not keep up with the -40 temps... I will be putting it all back to original, as luckily I have enough parts to do this. I have been able to bench test some parts of the system, and am determining what components to go with. The crusty time controller out of Reagh's derelict '67 immediately worked, while some of the shinier components at my disposal did not. You just never know... Next up is removing all the six volt components still attached to the car. Here you can see the main burner assembly, temperature controller, mixture pump, and mixer/shut off unit. All will be replaced, although that mixer may or may not be reusable... On the other side, that starter is getting the boot, and so it the six volt hard start relay. Installing that device in the past allowed the engine to crank over every time reliably, but it still did not like starting. Did I mention I am glad to get rid of the stupid six volt system??? Everyone should... Enough for now...
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