|
Post by tony on Apr 18, 2016 16:58:47 GMT -8
oxy/ace is a whole lot better but propane will do in a pinch. make a tin shield to protect anything you need to. you dont have to get it cherry red just enough to break the corrosion. heat the tube nut first and then the hose end.have your wrenches(that fit tight) ready. judging by the picture i would be replacing that flex line!the common failure on these hoses is at the crimp where it rusts (on the inside). when they are that rusty on the outside they are screaming "replace me!" . cut an old rusty one open to see what i mean. Sorry , wasn't trying to intrude on a professionals advice.......
|
|
|
Post by CrazyBrit on Apr 18, 2016 19:47:08 GMT -8
I found a few gentle taps of the moving part of the bracket with a hammer helped. Then instead of trying to take it straight out, I rotated them back and forth a few times using a large screw driver as a pry bar. Mine weren't as corroded as that, but it worked for me.
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 18, 2016 21:28:09 GMT -8
If that were mine, I would heat it. Also, replace ANY flex hose that looks original. Lots of people happily replace the fronts due to cracking, but won't replace the rears because they "look" ok. After 40 years they will be failing internally, so change them. Any hoses stamped with the ATE characters will be original...
|
|
|
Post by busaddict on Apr 19, 2016 1:54:58 GMT -8
Thanks Russ, I'll get to work on that.
|
|
|
Post by stude on Apr 19, 2016 6:52:06 GMT -8
Just cut them both and pull the clip and throw them out that rubber hose doesn't go to the master it goes to another hard line that is where you should be trying to pull it apart that hard line goes to a T fitting and you could try there also from there hard line goes to the master. You need to replace everything from the T fitting back just cut. Terry
|
|
|
Post by stude on Apr 19, 2016 8:08:01 GMT -8
Maybe not the short line from the rubber to T the but there are 2 connections between the rubber and the T only need to be able to loosen 1 of them and to get those clips off use a long flat screwdriver and hammer tap them out using top lip if that doesn't work a air chisel will do it in short order. Terry
|
|
|
Post by busaddict on Apr 19, 2016 12:25:42 GMT -8
Yes, I'll have a look at it from that perspective too. Thanks for everyone's input, appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by busaddict on Apr 19, 2016 13:28:54 GMT -8
Maybe not the short line from the rubber to T the but there are 2 connections between the rubber and the T only need to be able to loosen 1 of them and to get those clips off use a long flat screwdriver and hammer tap them out using top lip if that doesn't work a air chisel will do it in short order. Terry Stude, that makes perfect sense. I just went out there and tried the 14mm nut on the soft-line that connects to the drivers side T and it came loose with ease! Woo hoo! Progress, so as you said, get rid of the works and install new. I think I have a new soft-line somewhere, just need to order a new pre-flared hard-line to wheel cylinder. That really made my day, thanks guys, Stude, Russ and Crazybrit.
|
|
|
Post by PICTUP on Apr 19, 2016 16:42:59 GMT -8
thanks guys, Stude, Russ and Crazybrit. If you're naming names, don't forget the sensitive mechanics Mitch and Tony Glad to see you are making progress Tom!
|
|
|
Post by tony on Apr 19, 2016 16:52:23 GMT -8
sniff
|
|
|
Post by busaddict on Apr 19, 2016 17:43:02 GMT -8
Thanks Don, yes credit where credit is due. All of the comments in this thread have been of use. I was in a bit of a hurry as I only had so much time to get that far today, and less to get that post up...so...ahem....and Mitch and Tony
|
|
|
Post by stude on Apr 19, 2016 17:53:22 GMT -8
I think you guys are all full of crap not one of you would have used heat. T
|
|
|
Post by tony on Apr 19, 2016 18:06:39 GMT -8
Haha
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 19, 2016 19:27:05 GMT -8
Heat is your friend, rust is your enemy.
|
|
|
Post by busaddict on Apr 20, 2016 18:48:31 GMT -8
So here's what I removed from the driver's rear drum brake today. I wonder how difficult it will be to thread the new hard-line through metal support arm to the wheel cylinder. One minor issue, the rubber grommet just before the brake drum popped inward and into the housing, can't seem to get it back out, guess I'll get another one. The spare flex hose I had was the right length, but had two 17mm nut ends. Doh!
|
|