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Post by Volktales on Jun 18, 2017 19:40:51 GMT -8
Rear drums are already installed now. If you are using the original locking nuts for your front spindles, I would buy the alloy replacement pinch style nuts instead. They will make the job much less fiddly and be done quicker.
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Post by beetleboy on Jun 18, 2017 20:06:36 GMT -8
Russ said pinch style nuts
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Post by Volktales on Jun 18, 2017 20:28:34 GMT -8
Why do I hear Beavis and Butthead doing there signature laugh in the background???
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Post by PICTUP on Jun 18, 2017 21:39:04 GMT -8
The alloy replacement pinch style nuts will make the job much less fiddly and be done quicker. Amen to that. It is probably only time when "pinch" and "nuts" go together and it is a good thing!
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Post by Volktales on Jun 20, 2017 22:11:02 GMT -8
Tonight I had a bit of time and finished sanding the rusty pulleys. Then it was time to polarize the generator to see if that would cure the lack of charging. And it did! I have ran into this multiple times now on cars that have been sitting a long time. Re-establishing the residual magnetism is necessary for proper charging to occur and it worked fine. Pictures to come later... Next up is changing those points, replacing the fuel lines, and adjusting those valves. Road test is getting close...
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Post by Volktales on Jun 24, 2017 18:16:05 GMT -8
Intended on working on it some more this afternoon. Too damn hot! Will definitely try a test drive tomorrow, however!!!
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Post by Volktales on Jun 25, 2017 21:38:22 GMT -8
Pictures will be up tomorrow. Test drive DID occur, a mixture of good and needs improvement... Achieved 65 MPH without issue, and more was available...
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Post by Brenticon on Jun 25, 2017 22:29:21 GMT -8
As mentioned, Ruby was out touring and looked and sounded great .... Wonder if it'll be ready for Volksfest
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Post by peter on Jun 26, 2017 18:11:47 GMT -8
Can not wait to see the pictures! How was the ride, shocks? Steering?
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Post by Volktales on Jun 26, 2017 19:21:49 GMT -8
Sooo, more pictures...
Got out the course sandpaper, and went at it. The generator pulley was removed and cleaned on the wire wheel. These surfaces must be nice and smooth or the rough surface will "sand" the belt and wear it out quickly...
Now it was time to polarize the generator as mentioned earlier. You must disconnect the wires leading from the regulator to the generator itself. Then using thick jumper cables, connect the DF terminal (thinner of the two wires) to ground, and the D+ terminal (thicker) to positive terminal of battery (or battery power which on this model is available right behind regulator as shown) If the generator has a ground connection (D-), then make sure it is grounded too. Anyway when these connections are made, the generator will run as an electric motor. If it does not, then you have generator issues... The whole point of this is to establish residual magnetism in the pole shoes, which should allow the generator to charge properly. And it did. The instructions on how to do this is found in your Bentley manuals, although some versions explain it better then others... And don't polarize an alternator... Ever.
Then it was time to adjust those valves. Just like any other VW flat four. Except the clearances required on these old 40 horses are different then the much more common 1600's. Everyone by now probably knows that 0.006 inch is the correct number to adjust the valves on any 1300, 1500, and 1600 engine. The type 4 1700, 1800, and 2000 cc engines use 0.006" for intake valves, and 0.008" for exhaust valves. The earlier specs for 1200's were much different however, and it varies depending on type of head design. VW actually had some reliability issues with the 1200 engines regarding rocker shaft stud breakage. There are detailed explanations on theSamba about this, but the just of it is to figure out if the heads feature "long studs", or "short studs". Earlier (1961-1964) heads featured long rocker shaft studs that threaded deep into the cylinder head. 1965 and later designs featured short studs that thread only into the "floor" of the rocker chamber. The long stud heads require a much different clearance adjustment of 0.008" intake, and 0.012" exhaust, and this is what Peter's were set to. The short studs were originally set to 0.004" both intake and exhaust, but this was retroactively changed to the more common 0.006". If anyone is interested, I will link to theSamba article that shows how to identify what head type you might have on your vintage VW...
Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jun 26, 2017 19:48:50 GMT -8
Then time to install the new points. CIP did not have Bosch, so used these Doduco branded versions. Never heard of this German company before, but the quality looked decent. Gapped to 0.016" just like any other VW points. These two piece points are trickier to install however...
One of the last mechanical jobs before leaving the basement, was to replace the fuel lines. You will note I used both BRAIDED line, and put the fuel filter in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT! Both of these items are currently out of favour, but are installed for a reason. The braided line can suffer poor quality nowadays, but I used quality German hose right from the VW dealer. And braided still looks the most original, doesn't it??? I wanted to use more "original" looking hose clamps, but could not get my hands on what I wanted. All lines were clamped for safety. The fuel filter is not recommended in the engine compartment as much anymore due to the potential of the spigots falling out of the carb or fuel pump, due to the added weight of the filter hanging there. Peter's Beetle has had a replacement fuel pump installed at some time, and it's design means it is not possible for the spigots to come loose. The carb is much newer as well, and the spigot is nice and tight. I do not anticipate any problems at all with this setup...
Before the car left the basement, loose trim like this was re-secured. Luckily I have parts cars
Peter did not request this, but I could not help myself. Beetles originally always had a blanking plate under the right horn grill, as there was no horn installed on that side. Most have gone missing over the years, and many restored cars do not have them. Early cars like this '64 feature a painted metal plate. My '66 features a black plastic plate. Anyways they are easy to remove and a quick sanding and painting rejuvenated things...
Much better...
Also re-glued some loose carpeting, and re-installed the original seatbelts that had been removed years before. The largely original interior of this car is very nice.
And there it is outside, and ready for its first test drive since 2003! Peter will want to know why that nasty old wheel and tire is on his car... He bought new Firestone radials, and had them mounted and balanced on his original rims. The problem is that those original "smoothies" are all over 50 years old now, and few of them still run straight and true. All were slightly warped to some extent, but the one on the right rear is so badly bent that it should not be used. Hopefully his spare rim is painted the same way and transfer the new tire to that...
Time for that road test! First was a trip to Dad's to get the timing light, and verify that it was correct. Ten degrees before TDC is the spec on the 1200's. Vacuum advance was previously verified working. Really few adjustments were needed to make it run sweetly. A tweak to the choke, idle and mixture, and things were fine and dandy. Stopped at Brent's later where his "Monster Bus" dwarfed the Beetle...
Continued...
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Post by Volktales on Jun 26, 2017 20:07:36 GMT -8
And there it is parked at work today. So how does it drive? The engine runs very well and I am quite happy with its performance. The 1200's with correct gearing pull just fine, and have no problem at all cruising down the highway. You won't be passing many people, but you can go over 100km/h with ease. The brakes feel great (as they should!) with just a bit of drum warpage, which is extremely common. The transmission is nice and quiet, but is leaking somewhat. I am not totally happy with the shift linkage however. Every gear is easy to find, but first gear balks at times. I have already checked the coupler, and tinkered with the adjustment. It is better then it was, but if adjustment does not totally cure it, then it must be internal wear in the selector mechanism inside the trans. The clutch chatters somewhat as well, but is acceptable. The steering is what will need some further work. The car goes down the road just fine and is nice and stable on the highway. There is too much play in the system however. Some is the worn king and link pins, but the tie rod ends are a more likely culprit. These should be replaced soon. The one shock absorber that was shown earlier in this thread with the bad bushing, does clunk at times as well, although not as much as I thought it would...
Although it might sound negative, it is not bad at all to drive. Given how Peter intends to drive it as a low speed cruiser, it should serve him well for a long time. I will have a talk with him, and see how much further he might like to go with the car for now, or drive it and enjoy it the way it is... It has been a nice little project, and I enjoyed re-commissioning another vintage VW back to the road again...
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Post by Volktales on Jun 26, 2017 20:09:52 GMT -8
One more pic. Both sold at Speedway Motors back in the day...
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Post by peter on Jun 26, 2017 21:03:37 GMT -8
Looks great!
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Post by stude on Jun 27, 2017 9:04:22 GMT -8
You said the link pin is a bit loose I didn't read anywhere if you had loosened the bolts and adjusted them tight on the link pin side adjustment I do this every time I grease or adjust brakes. Terry
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