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Post by tony on May 22, 2017 20:23:07 GMT -8
For a while there I felt like turning the vehicle upside down to see if that would work!!!!!
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Post by CrazyBrit on May 22, 2017 21:16:19 GMT -8
I ditched the fancy pump and went back to the old fashioned push the pedal down and wedge a length of 2x4 between it and the steering wheel. I got nice clean fluid and no bubbles.
I can go to bed and sleep now without waking up trying to figure out why it wouldn't do what I wanted. Now I just need to remove the drums (again) and clean them up (again).
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Post by Wongai on May 23, 2017 7:38:28 GMT -8
Hey Mark are the bleeder screws leaving the cylinders near the bottom or top of the cylinders , my 53 had them leaving at the bottom and they were a nightmare to bleed , it seemed like they retained the air above the bleeder screw and only fluid was coming out the bleeder and if you loosened them more , fluid was coming out the drums (which i thint was running out from the theads of the bleeder screw and getting into the drum) . I thought there was a master cylinder problem at first so after the third master was in place I still had the problem. I think I did a total of about 80 bleeding sessions of all four wheels , so about 320 bleeds total!!! It finally worked out and it felt about 90% , I wasn't totally satisfied but at that point I didn't want to risk it being back to pedal to the floor! I could still lock up all four wheels nicely though so that had to suffice. Hopefully my grief can be helpful somewhat! Have the same issue on my bug. I too replaced my master cylinder. My brakes suck and I've been over it a million times. Makes me crazy.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 21, 2017 16:14:07 GMT -8
So, I tried starting the bus two days ago and all I got was a click and a dim ignition light.
One new battery later...
Vroom vroom. Or should that be phut phut?
It runs nicely, the only problem is that I have a gas leak from both carb's at the throttle shafts. The carb's are Weber 34ICTs (the good Italian ones, not the Chinese junk) and the motor is an otherwise stock 1600cc DP. There is almost no play in the shafts and this problem did not exist last year when the bus was running (as far as I know anyway!). Does anyone know if the shaft seals on these carb's are prone to failure? I have a couple of new seals, but I would need four to repair both carb's and I am having problems finding them locally without buying complete rebuild kits at $60 a set. I tried tightening the nuts on the ends of the shafts, but this meant that the shafts would not rotate, so that didn't work!
Any advice?
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Post by Volktales on Jun 21, 2017 17:10:19 GMT -8
Real problem is probably excessive fuel dumping down throttles. Sinking floats? Dirt in needle valves? How is it running???
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Post by PICTUP on Jun 21, 2017 17:23:28 GMT -8
the motor is an otherwise stock 1600cc DP. Any advice? Ditch the dual carbs and a whole host of potential problems and get your Bus on the road by going to a single carb. Why set up unnecessary roadblocks?(I am the master of setting up ones for myself, just so you know )
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 21, 2017 17:28:45 GMT -8
That might have been me then. It didnt start initially and I wasn't sure if it was ignition or fuel, so I poured a little gas down the carb. It started when I did that so it was evidently the fuel!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 25, 2017 11:39:01 GMT -8
I sorted the fuel issue. I had routed the lines too high and the fuel was downflooding from the lines into the carb's when I shut down the engine. Doh.
Yesterday I tried timing it. It ran well initially and I was able to drive it out of the garage, turn it around and drive it back in. Part way through adjusting the timing, the engine started making a banging and clattering noise. I reset the distributor to the original position but it made no difference.
I suspected the fan initially, so checked that was tight this morning and have also tried starting it with the fan belt removed, but the noise persists. I have removed the starter, which was freshly rebuilt a couple of years ago and has hardly been used since. When I backed off the bolts and pulled the starter forward away from the bellhousing, the noise is not there (turning the engine by hand of course!). I removed the starter and found fresh metal filings on the sprocket. If I pull the sprocket out into the starting position, it immediately springs back into the starter unit when released. Something is evidently fouling in the bell housing and it appears that something changed whilst I was tuning it yesterday. Before I start pulling the engine again, does anyone have any suggestions please?
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Post by mitchy965 on Jun 25, 2017 12:10:11 GMT -8
grab the front pulley and push it in and pull it out,iow check your end play.
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Post by tony on Jun 25, 2017 12:18:15 GMT -8
Try a different starter. Are there any possible binding issues when the starter engages or intermittent electrical problems causing the starter to try and engage ?!?! Once I had a long bare connector on the large hot terminal on the solenoid that moved a bit and made a connection with the small starting connection!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 25, 2017 13:37:21 GMT -8
I checked for end play by pulling and pushing on the pulley and there was none.
I don't have a spare starter - I think this is the original. I had it rebuilt and it has done less than 200 miles before the clutch started slipping last year.
I was considering adding a washer or two on each bolt to space it out from the bell housing, to try to increase the space between the sprocket and the flywheel.
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Post by Volktales on Jun 25, 2017 18:34:40 GMT -8
I've heard the sound of nuts bouncing around the bellhousing before and it is quite distinctive. How about this. Is it possible your ignition switch allowed the starter to re-engage???
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 25, 2017 20:55:04 GMT -8
The ignition switch is a repop, so anything is possible. It certainly didn't sound like the starter was re-engaging. At first I thought that the fan was loose. It was that sort of banging clattering sound of a loose fan that was spinning and bouncing off the housing.
I'm tempted to try shimming the starter motor forward a couple of mm to see if that resolves it. At least then if I pull the engine and find nothing I'll know that it's just a clearance issue. Would this cause any problems?
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Post by tony on Jun 25, 2017 21:04:25 GMT -8
are all your transaxel to engine bolts tight?
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Post by mitchy965 on Jun 25, 2017 21:12:00 GMT -8
does your clutch pedal feel normal?
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