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Post by Volktales on Jun 25, 2017 21:26:28 GMT -8
I have not had to ever shim a starter for a VW. Clip for throw-out bearing fall out of position?
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 25, 2017 22:55:04 GMT -8
I guess I'm going to be pulling the motor out before I go to work tomorrow 😐
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Post by PICTUP on Jun 25, 2017 23:58:30 GMT -8
You gotta like doing that by now
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Post by CrazyBrit on Jun 27, 2017 13:10:01 GMT -8
At rest the starter is binding on the flywheel, but only one spot. There's something going on with my flywheel. In the immortal words of Hugh Grant. Bugger.
Bugger, bugger, bugger.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Aug 10, 2017 19:20:59 GMT -8
It's been a while since I posted, primarily due to a trip home to the old country. I took a few hours away from my studies and achieved today's objective. In my bus's own words: Cough, splutter, pop, pop, splutter, splutter, pop, vroom, vroom.
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Post by Volktales on Aug 10, 2017 20:22:55 GMT -8
Vroom is good.
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Post by Wongai on Aug 10, 2017 20:40:49 GMT -8
Vroom is good...Vroom Vroom is a Mazda. Have you been working on the wrong car?
Glad to hear she is fired up!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Aug 10, 2017 21:33:49 GMT -8
I thought Mazda was Zoom Zoom.
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Post by Wongai on Aug 10, 2017 21:55:08 GMT -8
AH CRAP!
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Post by PICTUP on Aug 11, 2017 12:33:19 GMT -8
As long as it isn't preceded by "Crank, crank...." It's been a while since I posted, primarily due to a trip home to the old country. I took a few hours away from my studies and achieved today's objective. In my bus's own words: Cough, splutter, pop, pop, splutter, splutter, pop, vroom, vroom. Congrats! That must feel good!
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Post by CrazyBrit on Sept 2, 2017 17:01:53 GMT -8
A few questions for those who are more technically inclined than me please! 1. My temperature gauge is showing 220 Fahrenheit after only 5 kms of in town driving. - The engine smells hot and the stainless muffler has a nice "tinkling" sound as it cools.
- The dipstick is hot, but you can hold it for around 5 seconds before is starts to become uncomfortable.
- The engine lid is hot.
- The engine has stock tinware, a doghouse fan and the cooling flaps are secured open.
- The engine is an F series (late sixties?) case built as a standard 1600cc twin port running 34mm Webers, an 009 distributor with points and a Bluebird Customs 1600cc stainless exhaust.
- The temperature sender is installed into the relief valve port under the engine.
I appreciate this could be the temperature gauge telling me lies - it is the one that I had installed when my 1914cc motor appeared to overheat on the Malahat, but the smell and the heat in the engine bay make me suspect otherwise. How can I get a reliable temperature reading and what should that temperature reading be please? Note that it was 30+ celcius outside when this was measured. 2. I have an oil leak from two of my pushrod tubes. They are the anodised, sprung Scat ones. I have some aircraft grade gasket sealant for them, but the problem is that I cannot manage to compress the tubes with the engine in place and the lower tinware attached - they are too smooth and I cannot get an adequate enough grip on them. They are on the left side of the engine where you cannot easily remove the tinware from below. Any suggestions / tricks of the trade please? 3. My bus is a semaphore bus, but I have also installed bolt on flashers for modern roads - not that anyone else uses them in Nanaimo... In order to allow the semaphores to work without looking like a bird preparing for take off, I have installed two separate flasher units after the indicator stalk on the column. Normally there would be one relay installed between the fuse box and the switch - ie "before" in my terminology. One of my flashers failed today and the other is not far behind - Chinese crap! Other than installing a separate switch, is there a DIY method of installing one flasher relay in the proper position, without flapping my semaphores?! Thank you!
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Post by Volktales on Sept 8, 2017 19:57:38 GMT -8
Just realized that I have not answered this...
What are the ideal running temperatures? Like so many things VW, there are differences of opinion on this. When I was investigating my Ghia issues, it seems that most consider 200-220 F as ok. It has been previously mentioned here by others with more experience, that 180 F is minimum temperature, and 230 F is considered maximum safe for short intervals. 240 F is apparently when conventional oil starts to break down, so you don't want temperatures near that...
I have not had the pleasure of resealing SCAT pushrod tubes so don't know how much effort is required to collapse them. Removing the heater box to allow tin removal doesn't sound all that fun..
I am not familiar with semaphore operation at all, so can't really help you there. I bet you will find a diagram of exactly what you want on-line if you search enough for it...
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Post by CrazyBrit on Sept 8, 2017 20:16:04 GMT -8
I drove it around this afternoon for a while and the temperature seemed to hover around 200F. I haven't had any time lately (for a change!) to do any significant road testing, but I am wondering if it was the very high temperatures that day that caused the overheating.
A colleague at work has suggested a strap wrench for removing the pushrod tubes. I don't have one in my toolbox, so I'll have to get myself one to give it a try. Right now, it marks it's spot wherever it goes.
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Post by PICTUP on Sept 9, 2017 18:08:02 GMT -8
I drove it around this afternoon for a while and the temperature seemed to hover around 200F. I haven't had any time lately (for a change!) to do any significant road testing, but I am wondering if it was the very high temperatures that day that caused the overheating. A colleague at work has suggested a strap wrench for removing the pushrod tubes. I don't have one in my toolbox, so I'll have to get myself one to give it a try. Right now, it marks it's spot wherever it goes. Just remember to bring a piece of cardboard that spans your wheel track width to the Cruise In tomorrow.
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Post by CrazyBrit on Sept 9, 2017 18:58:03 GMT -8
Already in the bus😊
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