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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 11, 2023 12:12:51 GMT -8
I like the beetle taillights they would sit on there just right no big holes to cut out.
That would be too easy, this is why they're all different...
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 18, 2023 13:57:10 GMT -8
It was 2*C in the workshop this morning. Definitely the time to burn some of the scrap wood laying around to warm the building before putting the next layer of epoxy/glass on the body raise. In order to mount my headlight and 4 way flasher switches, I cut out a couple of metal discs to weld in from the backside of the 1" dimpled holes, I think the blocked dimples look better than if simply flush mounted. The silver rim of the air ride gauge will be painted to match the other 4 gauges and the switches. Still far from street legal but even the smallest progress counts towards the end product.
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Post by PICTUP on Nov 19, 2023 12:57:53 GMT -8
I think I get what you mean when you say "blocked dimples"(as long as the second "d" doesn't get flipped, then all I can think of is high school, ugh!). Going the extra mile does add a bit of class over just flush mount, I agree! Are the corners and tunnel welds done, or are they going to be filled-in more and ground down? Looking good!
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 24, 2023 7:22:12 GMT -8
I'm thinking to go back and add spot welds every .75" or so all all the way down the sides, similar to how the seats are constructed and how the console is currently attached to the tunnel at the bottom. I am trying to give a nod towards the style of many rat rod/race cars/etc but without the rusty surfacing or 'gun bluing' of the rat rods. My idea is to clean up all the interior metal including the seats and shoot clear over it and go with rubber floor mats. Trying to stay 'raw & business like' without extras like stereo, speaker pods, carpet, etc. I have a pair of 4 point race harness style seat belts to go in and planning a bolt in roll cage as well, so I can still remove the body when needed. The car will be designed to run without the body for maintenance/occasional fun trips around the neighbourhood.
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 25, 2023 21:01:19 GMT -8
Picked up some 2x2" steel to create a cradle mount for the gas tank, although two of the ends still need to be capped. Used some scrap pieces of 1x4" wood to mock up the tank location/height so the filler sits in just the right spot. Tomorrow I'll lift the body back on, bolt it all together and check the fitment. Hopefully the next step will be cutting the four risers for the tank and welding them in place of the wooden fixture.
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Post by Volktales on Nov 26, 2023 7:58:19 GMT -8
I have seen a Ghia with 2x4's used as structural wood in the rocker panels!
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Post by PICTUP on Nov 26, 2023 11:17:14 GMT -8
I have seen a Ghia with 2x4's used as structural wood in the rocker panels! Sadly those weren't a mock-up or meant as temporary!
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 26, 2023 17:05:45 GMT -8
What a pleasant surprise, I dropped the body on with the wooden jig in place and the filler lined up perfectly! Now I just have to replicate this in steel. The four 2"x2" uprights are rough cut and after a bit of length matching, will be ready to weld together this afternoon. The filler neck clears the body on a slight angle, so the cap is not parallel to the flat area around the filler, I may pie cut/weld the filler neck so the cap sits straight.
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 26, 2023 20:24:52 GMT -8
Everything is solidly tacked together and fits well, I'll likely add some additional braces along the back and sides. The clamps on the top beam will be welded/plated onto the front uprights. The hole for the filler neck in the body was originally oversize, but now it's ended up a bit offset which will require filling.
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Post by ocdgarage on Nov 30, 2023 7:08:25 GMT -8
I think I get what you mean when you say "blocked dimples"(as long as the second "d" doesn't get flipped, then all I can think of is high school, ugh!). Going the extra mile does add a bit of class over just flush mount, I agree! Are the corners and tunnel welds done, or are they going to be filled-in more and ground down? Looking good! The switches are mounted to round discs, welded into the dimpled holes from the back side. The console is only spot welded on the inside as you can see in other pics, so you can currently only see the burn through from the driver's side of the console. More to come.
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Post by ocdgarage on Dec 14, 2023 21:22:33 GMT -8
As you can see, I started the buckets by covering them with bubble wrap, 3 layers of masking tape and a couple layers of duct tape to bulk up/protect the tail lights before covering them in a few layers of 'glass/epoxy. They need a bit more work but I'm on the fence about the depth they'll be mounted for the final install. Originally, I had intended to mount them flush, but will likely 'glass the buckets on as is to give me mounting options later by using spacers.
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Post by ocdgarage on Dec 16, 2023 17:14:47 GMT -8
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Post by PICTUP on Dec 18, 2023 21:51:33 GMT -8
While it looks cool, I would be 'concerned' about keeping everything that is frenched-in clean and dry. Are you putting a drain hole below the light? Nice clean work so far though!
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Post by ocdgarage on Dec 19, 2023 21:27:48 GMT -8
While it looks cool, I would be 'concerned' about keeping everything that is frenched-in clean and dry. Are you putting a drain hole below the light? Nice clean work so far though! Valid point, but if fully frenched, a drain hole located at the bottom/back of the pod would solve any water worries. The pods are open on the backside already, so when the tail lights are spaced to their final depth, drainage should not be an issue.
My original vision was to have the lenses sit flush or slightly recessed compared to the surface of the shell. It's quite a bit of extra work for a fairly subtle change, but I believe small details add greatly to the overall look of a finished build. Hopefully this car will only be getting wet when I wash it anyway.
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Post by PICTUP on Dec 20, 2023 10:30:48 GMT -8
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