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Post by magikbus on May 17, 2017 16:15:46 GMT -8
When you're done there you're welcome to come up island to Ladysmith and have a go at mine.
I thought Rick had moved out? Isn't his place on the Malahat empty? Stan
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Post by Brenticon on May 17, 2017 17:01:06 GMT -8
Holy crap dude! That's crazy. I gotta get down there one day
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Post by magikbus on May 17, 2017 18:06:56 GMT -8
I drove by there Sunday, it sure looks abandoned. Stan
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Post by Volktales on May 17, 2017 20:36:30 GMT -8
Very hard core stuff! Makes my whining about a little rust in my Fastback quite pathetic...
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Post by wcp on May 18, 2017 8:22:53 GMT -8
this makes me feel uneasy. Excellent job cutting and leaving the seams. you are butt-welding it all, right?
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Post by Wongai on May 18, 2017 9:07:42 GMT -8
Thanks for checking out the post dudes. I'm still deep in the learning process, but once I beat this beast, I might have the confidence to offer advice and help to others. It's not really hard, just expensive and time consuming. really time consuming. I spend about two days just removing the battery tray and cleaning up the area around it.
I am butt welding in most cases, but I also have a sweet flange making tool that makes for a nice fit.
I've been speaking to Rick. He is no longer at his place. Totally sucks to not have him in my local area. He has always been a huge help to me. If anyone knows of a property that would work for his operation, please let me know. We gotta set him up with something awesome.
Thanks again guys. Good luck with your projects! B
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Post by wcp on May 18, 2017 9:48:00 GMT -8
before you do the flange fitting - do you know the trick to perfectly getting a 1mm gap on replacement metal? get it placed where you want (hold it there), then use either some small #6 screws or cleos in the 4 corners of the piece. it has to overlap the metal it's replacing. hold it tight (close to the body metal), then cut with a 1mm cutoff disc. leave a small amount in each corner that has the screws (so it doesnt flop down). when it's 98% cut, cut the corners. worked AWESOME. i did my whole nose, tails, engine cover and side this way. like this: miacvw.proboards.com/thread/127/bespoke-early-bay-westy?page=1
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Post by Wongai on May 18, 2017 19:08:41 GMT -8
before you do the flange fitting - do you know the trick to perfectly getting a 1mm gap on replacement metal? The flange welds are only for the hidden places. The method you describe is a great way to do it. Way easier than trying to fit a large piece. Thanks man!
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Post by PICTUP on May 21, 2017 8:04:34 GMT -8
Sometimes it takes a refresher note from others that have done it to remind us of the finer points...good stuff, thanks Paul! Looking great Byron, you are making some real progress since I was there last.
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Post by wcp on May 21, 2017 19:42:51 GMT -8
make sure you have a few extra rolls of 0.35 wire (and a full tank of gas). you are going to need a lot of wire to fully weld up that beast. my other thoughts on the flange approach - if you do them so the flange it up - it'll collect water and rust if you dont fully seam seal her up. i know you are a smart guy and probably already know this stuff, so take my unsolicited $0.02 with a grain of salt.
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Post by PICTUP on May 21, 2017 20:06:06 GMT -8
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Post by 1hotvw on May 22, 2017 4:37:33 GMT -8
0.23 is what I have been using easier to weld less burn thro. are we missing something Paul
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Post by Wongai on May 23, 2017 7:17:03 GMT -8
Sorry for the slow reply. Been away from the computer all weekend.
Thanks for all your info Paul. I welcome your advice so even if you think I might know something, don't hesitate to throw out your thoughts. I'm happy to have the feedback. I use 23 wire, but have heavier if called for.
So far the has not been any flange welding, but it's likely to come up in some of the protected and invisible places.
Thanks again dudes! B
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Post by wcp on May 23, 2017 8:06:56 GMT -8
you guys are right on the wire. i think i am running 30 wire, not 35. sorry to add to any confusion.
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Post by magikbus on Jun 7, 2017 19:21:28 GMT -8
I've got a quick question for you regarding inner Rockers, LH side. There are evidently two kinds, the first is billed as "slip in" by CIP1 and the other as "weld in" by Concept1 in Calgary. Now the Calgary folks want a lot for freight, saying Canada Post won't ship something that long. And...here's the kicker, I no longer have a welder or the skills to use it on sheet metal anyway. I am a big big fan of glue in panels and parts that are not support structures, having done that in the past with great results.
Here's the question. Are you familiar with both the CIP1 inner rocker and the Concept 1 inner rocker? Do you have a preference?
Stan
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