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Post by eganguitars on May 14, 2017 7:43:49 GMT -8
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Post by stude on May 14, 2017 9:00:26 GMT -8
We like pictures sounds like it is turning over the resistance is probably just the compression stroke maybe go back to fuel delivery issue does it crank over more than just a few revolutions with that battery? T
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Post by Volktales on May 14, 2017 9:59:06 GMT -8
Did you stop cranking it when it stopped in the video, or did it stop cranking in short bursts by itself? It did sound like a lack of compression while cranking, but I would need to hear it crank for a longer duration. Do you have a compression gauge? Intermittent no starts are a pain, but when it won't start, you need to verify if you lost your spark or fuel pressure...
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Post by eganguitars on May 14, 2017 11:56:33 GMT -8
Did you stop cranking it when it stopped in the video, or did it stop cranking in short bursts by itself? It did sound like a lack of compression while cranking, but I would need to hear it crank for a longer duration. Do you have a compression gauge? Intermittent no starts are a pain, but when it won't start, you need to verify if you lost your spark or fuel pressure... That was me stopping and starting on the key. I think we have a compression gauge. I have spark from the coil, but I'll see what's happening at the spark plugs. Also picking up another fuel pump, just in case that old one only worked for a brief period before dying again.
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Post by eganguitars on May 14, 2017 16:05:32 GMT -8
With checking " spark", I've pulled centre from distributor and have a good spark from the coil. Beyond that can I test spark plugs or distribute cap?
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Post by eganguitars on May 15, 2017 14:37:42 GMT -8
So todays tests........Pulled the valve covers to make sure nothing weird going in there while spinning the engine by hand. All looked and sounded good in there. So then we went back to checking for spark before trying to fire. Now there is no spark off of coil lead or spark plug wire. Test light showed power to the coil while cranking but no spark coming out. I unhooked the fuel pump wires at the pump just incase maybe something weird going on at that end. Fuses under the dash all look good. Any tips on why the coil might not be giving spark? I did put another coil on to test, but I'm not 100% sure that it was a "good " one. I replaced the points as well.
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Post by eganguitars on May 26, 2017 10:59:20 GMT -8
So I'm kind of at a loss of where to go with this. Has anybody experienced a loss of spark from the coil? I've tried 3 different coils with the same result. The most recent wiring I would have played with was on the starter, which I've gone back, cleaned up and double checked. Bus turns over with the key cranked, but no spark from coil.
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Post by tony on May 26, 2017 11:20:48 GMT -8
Does the 12v lead read 12v with ignition on and in cranking mode and does the ground at the coil have continuity , rotor isn't laying on the ground?!?!
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Post by eganguitars on May 26, 2017 13:18:45 GMT -8
Does the 12v lead read 12v with ignition on and in cranking mode and does the ground at the coil have continuity , rotor isn't laying on the ground?!?! With the test light I have power to the coil. And with the multimeter measuring while cranking I definately do not have 12v at the coil, don't know if that matters. As for measuring ground continuity at the coil, is it the same as the green wire going to the points and distributor? Rotor is in, but trust me I'm trying to look for the obvious answer.
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Post by tony on May 26, 2017 14:17:38 GMT -8
Disclaimer : all info from a casual aircooled vw driver and is mostly made up I'm guessing!?!? that while cranking you may have a noticeable voltage drop at the hot side of the coil to ground maybe a couple of volts down from what your battery reads at rest , and with ignition on and not cranking it should read the same as your battery voltage and when running it should show an increase of 1-2 volts higher than your battery at rest (with a working charging system). When turned off , the condenser side of the coil should have continuity to ground , (maybe an ohm or two) and while running (on my bug) I was reading 9v to ground and about 3v between the two terminals on the coil...........
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Post by tony on May 26, 2017 14:20:50 GMT -8
Also if the condenser is no good I'm not sure of the symptoms or testing procedure!
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Post by tony on May 26, 2017 14:23:32 GMT -8
Point gap?
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Post by mitchy965 on May 26, 2017 14:58:31 GMT -8
quick ignition test at the coil using only a 12v test light. ground your your test light and with the key on it should light up on the positive side of the coil. now crank it over and make sure it stays lit. move tester to the neg(dist side) of the coil and crank the engine, the light should flash as the engine cranks. if there is no flashing you have a switch(points/condenser)problem. inspect the points, file, clean and regap them. if you have a ohm meter you can check the coil for continuity on both the primary/secondary side of the coil. look for 3 ohms primary and approx 8-10 K ohms on the secondary side. when a condenser fails it either shorts to ground (burns the points) or loses its capacitance(burns the points) it is only there to act like an electrical shock absorber to provide an alternate voltage path so the points don't arc and burn. another way to eliminate possibles is to hot wire the coil from the battery + to the coil + to test if the ignition switch/wiring are failing. you can also act like a set of points by removing the neg wire from the coil and supplying a ground via a jumper wire. every time the wire is grounded and ungrounded the coil will discharge (spark).(hands clear of course) unless you like that sort of thing.
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Post by tony on May 26, 2017 15:17:39 GMT -8
Yeah , I was just going to say that!
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Post by eganguitars on May 26, 2017 15:46:53 GMT -8
Thanks a bunch dudes. I really just needed some direction as I'm spinning my wheels here with my little bit of knowledge. I'll let you know how I make out with this.
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