|
Post by eganguitars on Apr 17, 2017 20:00:38 GMT -8
Just looking for some advice or tips on how to troubleshoot this.....
I have a 77 Bay Window that I did some work over the last few years. I replaced the front beam a few summers back and while I was under there I also replaced the fuel pump and master cylinder. The brake booster was always a question mark, and after all the work it just didnt work properly. But the van still ran and I would drive it around the farm about once a week to keep things moving. A while back I decided to pull the booster off to take another look at it. I put it back on the van and since then the van will not fire up. The engine turns but just will not fire up.
I have checked for spark, and YES I do have spark
I have also since replaced the brake booster.
When squirting some ether into the air filter we can get the van to stutter to life and fire up for a few seconds.
I have also drained all the old gas, and replaced with a few gallons of fresh gas.
Any tips moving forward....It will still not fire up
|
|
|
Post by PICTUP on Apr 17, 2017 20:05:34 GMT -8
FI or converted to carbs?
|
|
|
Post by eganguitars on Apr 17, 2017 20:08:34 GMT -8
FI I believe....but I'm a major rookie at this
|
|
|
Post by Brenticon on Apr 17, 2017 20:09:00 GMT -8
Sounds like vacuum brake booster disconnect
|
|
|
Post by eganguitars on Apr 17, 2017 20:09:44 GMT -8
Could you explain that more?
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 17, 2017 20:43:05 GMT -8
Your brake booster is vacuum operated. There is a braided hose that connects to the round part of the booster that faces towards the back of the bus. This line must be connected to the booster at the front, and follow it to the back to make sure it is attached at the engine via the intake manifold. There is a different braided line that connects to the forward facing round part of the booster. This is a vent line and goes into a cavity in the left dogleg below the driver's door. If your bus is rusty, this vent line and its placement may not be obvious... It does sound like you have a vacuum leak, likely to do with the booster line.
|
|
|
Post by eganguitars on Apr 17, 2017 20:56:26 GMT -8
Your brake booster is vacuum operated. There is a braided hose that connects to the round part of the booster that faces towards the back of the bus. This line must be connected to the booster at the front, and follow it to the back to make sure it is attached at the engine via the intake manifold. There is a different braided line that connects to the forward facing round part of the booster. This is a vent line and goes into a cavity in the left dogleg below the driver's door. If your bus is rusty, this vent line and its placement may not be obvious... It does sound like you have a vacuum leak, likely to do with the booster line. Do you know if it is possible to bypass the booster? Just to check to see if the van will fire up without the booster hooked up?
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 17, 2017 21:01:19 GMT -8
Just find the booster line connection on the intake manifold, and temporarily plug it (at the engine side). While you are in the vicinity, make sure all your other vacuum lines and connections are firmly in place. If you bus is still fuel injected, check all hose connections to the big rubber ribbed "S" boot the connects the intake manifold to the air filter housing...
|
|
|
Post by eganguitars on Apr 18, 2017 18:18:36 GMT -8
Just find the booster line connection on the intake manifold, and temporarily plug it (at the engine side). While you are in the vicinity, make sure all your other vacuum lines and connections are firmly in place. If you bus is still fuel injected, check all hose connections to the big rubber ribbed "S" boot the connects the intake manifold to the air filter housing... Aside from a visual inspection is there any simple way to test a vacuum leak? All the lines "look" ok. I also tried to plug booster line just past the check valve and still no fire.
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 19, 2017 7:27:49 GMT -8
Post of some pictures of your engine, and maybe we can see something not right. Normally I would say to check your points first, but you did say it starts with a different fuel source... We need pics to verify if you still have injection or a carb conversion.
|
|
|
Post by PICTUP on Apr 19, 2017 16:57:15 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by magikbus on Apr 19, 2017 17:39:48 GMT -8
I just read the first page of the Samba description on how to diagnose FI system troubles. Sounds way too complicated for a mid 70s VW engine. I'm sticking my neck out here but I'm glad I went with the dual carb setup.
Go ahead and fire away with the rotten tomatoes guys, I've just ducked down behind my monitor. Stan
|
|
|
Post by Brenticon on Apr 19, 2017 18:04:39 GMT -8
Having had Russ to communicate with, I'm gonna have to say, it sounds and looks more complicated than it is. Stuck on the side of the road in revelstoke, I pretty much went step by step thru the book to get it running, and learned so much. As everything, new stuff gets complicated, butvthe more you use it, the more comfortable it gets
|
|
|
Post by magikbus on Apr 19, 2017 18:55:44 GMT -8
You're absolutely right Brent, I've never even seen the guts of an FI system, so it's all very foreign to me. I'm used to setting points, timing, gaping plugs, setting valve spring gaps, and carb adjustment stuff. I've even played with changing out jets on a single weber (to little avail), but that's it for me. When I'm faced with air flap valves, resistances etc. I'd have to have a book with me. Stan
|
|
|
Post by Volktales on Apr 20, 2017 7:18:38 GMT -8
Give me fuel injection any day. Always.
|
|