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Post by Volktales on May 26, 2017 17:49:55 GMT -8
If you think you have power to the coil with the ignition on, but none while cranking, then the fault will be the ignition switch which is fairly common these days. As Mitchy says above, if you run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive terminal of the coil, and it starts right up, then this shows your ignition switch is faulty... If you do this, you can't shut the engine back off with the key; you would have to remove your jumper wire.. Worn out/dirty/mis-adjusted points are still the number one cause of no starts on old buses...
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Post by eganguitars on May 26, 2017 19:19:11 GMT -8
If you think you have power to the coil with the ignition on, but none while cranking, then the fault will be the ignition switch which is fairly common these days. As Mitchy says above, if you run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive terminal of the coil, and it starts right up, then this shows your ignition switch is faulty... If you do this, you can't shut the engine back off with the key; you would have to remove your jumper wire.. Worn out/dirty/mis-adjusted points are still the number one cause of no starts on old buses... Would I leave everything else hooked up to the coil and just add the direct connection from the battery? Or what would I pull off at the coil?
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Post by Volktales on May 26, 2017 21:15:34 GMT -8
You can leave everything else connected, although I would attach the jumper wire after you have the key in the on position, and disconnect it before you try to shut it off.
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Post by eganguitars on May 29, 2017 13:03:05 GMT -8
Ok, so I've tried the jumper from +/+ and it did nothing to help fire up. I tried the test light on both terminals on the coil. The + terminal flickers when cranking but the -terminal does not flicker when cranking. I've replaced the points with brand new points, but did not have a spare condensor. Still the same result with test light hooked up. Am I getting closer?
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Post by mitchy965 on May 29, 2017 16:38:47 GMT -8
what did you gap the points to? 16thou is spec. the points are not working if the neg side doesn't flash while cranking so i guess you are closer. the test light on the positive side should remain constant while cranking (it may dim slightly under the high load of the starter but thats showing a weak battery). recheck your point gap.make sure you are setting it on the highest part of the cam lobe. remove all doubt and replace the condenser. i remove the dist to replace the points and condenser(much easier and affords a high degree of accuracy when setting the gap).you want the gap set properly if you want it to run well.
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Post by eganguitars on Jun 13, 2017 20:14:16 GMT -8
Reviving an almost dead thread here dudes....I have spark again from the coil! I retraced all my steps, cleaning up connections and checking for anything weird. After each step I tested for spark, and nothing until I got all the way back to the fuel pump AGAIN! I unhooked the fuel pump wires, tested for spark and voila. Hooked them back up and still have spark. What the heck? So I've now taken that fuel pump off, and replaced with a used/tested pump. Good strong spark happening but still no fire. Even with a blast of ether I still get no fire. It almost sputters to life but will not fire up.
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Post by Brenticon on Jun 13, 2017 20:42:52 GMT -8
Omg, you sound like me working on my bus. If it's not working, it's usually something I touched and didn't put back in correct. I feel your struggles but in the end, you will prevail. Only advice I can give is, dont over think stuff,
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Post by Volktales on Jun 14, 2017 17:00:16 GMT -8
You didn't stuff a rag down your intake when working on it earlier, did you? Cleaning wiring connections at fuel pump should have no bearing on spark. Did you try the jumper wire to the coil test as mentioned earlier? If your ignition switch is failing, you can lose both spark, fuel, and injection as well. If you know you have good spark at the plugs, and fuel available (even ether), it should try to start as long as the timing is correct, and there is no blockage in the intake or exhaust. (A completely plugged exhaust will not allow an engine to start...) If Brent touched anything, then that is your problem!
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Post by eganguitars on Jun 14, 2017 18:01:04 GMT -8
You didn't stuff a rag down your intake when working on it earlier, did you? Cleaning wiring connections at fuel pump should have no bearing on spark. Did you try the jumper wire to the coil test as mentioned earlier? If your ignition switch is failing, you can lose both spark, fuel, and injection as well. If you know you have good spark at the plugs, and fuel available (even ether), it should try to start as long as the timing is correct, and there is no blockage in the intake or exhaust. (A completely plugged exhaust will not allow an engine to start...) If Brent touched anything, then that is your problem! I did try the jumper wire, but I did not have any spark from coil at the time. I just checked the intake, and it is all clear. Way back when, before the fuel pump fiasco I had timed the engine. Would it be way out by just pulling points in and out and resetting? I should also note that today she begins with a backfire, but still not "firing" just sounds like starter spinning with a little sputter if I lay on the starter for too long.
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Post by 1hotvw on Jun 14, 2017 20:25:05 GMT -8
try not to run your starter longer than 30 sec s at a time or you will be buying a new one.
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Post by Volktales on Jun 15, 2017 7:17:01 GMT -8
Did you remove the distributor and disturb the timing setting when replacing the points? That could do it if the timing is waaay off.
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Post by eganguitars on Jun 15, 2017 9:23:10 GMT -8
No, I didn't take the distributor out to set the points. And with failing ignition option, I had actually tried a new ignition as well, but swapped them back when it didn't fix my problem. I' checked for spark last night going to the plugs, and It was ok. So I think my coil and distributor are working...for now.
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Post by Volktales on Jun 15, 2017 17:13:09 GMT -8
Looks like it is time to get back to basics, and verify timing, fuel pressure, points function, etc. P.M. me your phone number, and it is time to have a chat...
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Post by eganguitars on Jun 19, 2017 12:36:29 GMT -8
Ok, so I have sputtered back to life. But she don't sound healthy. I need to lay on the starter for about 5-6 seconds, and then pump the gas to get if fired. And also need to keep the throttle pumping or she dies. The only thing I've changed is spark plugs from last go around. Timing or fuel at this point?
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Post by mitchy965 on Jun 19, 2017 13:24:04 GMT -8
vacuum leak
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