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Post by Rob Sannes on Mar 15, 2020 10:41:35 GMT -8
Does that starter bolt look like that so one didn't need to get a wrench on it for tightening the nut? Yes it is for that reason. The stock bolt id "D" shaped in stock form but I imagine the starter housing of the aftermarket starter wouldn't allow it to work like stock notice the little notch for it in a stock starter
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Post by PICTUP on Mar 16, 2020 8:28:51 GMT -8
Just out of curiosity, could that bolt fit in clocked 45° to the left so that the two flat spots in the case take the flat spot on the bolt? I'm not quite getting how welding on a big lever would facilitate installation without a wrench, since it was made already made to work without a wrench....Unless the lever was there to push against when installing the engine with the starter in place with that bolt. I know getting one's hand into that area is sometimes a pain and another person is required to tighten the 17mm nut on the other(engine compartment) side. Maybe this is the creative solution?
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Post by Rob Sannes on Mar 16, 2020 20:28:46 GMT -8
Just out of curiosity, could that bolt fit in clocked 45° to the left so that the two flat spots in the case take the flat spot on the bolt? I'm not quite getting how welding on a big lever would facilitate installation without a wrench, since it was made already made to work without a wrench....Unless the lever was there to push against when installing the engine with the starter in place with that bolt. I know getting one's hand into that area is sometimes a pain and another person is required to tighten the 17mm nut on the other(engine compartment) side. Maybe this is the creative solution? Sorry I didn't explain it very well. You do need a 17 mm wrench to tighten the nut on the engine bay side of course. The D shaped bolt if clocked 45° it does rest on the 2 points on the stock starter in the photo like you said . I was only saying the funny bolt modification was because the back side of the high tourq starter I have is flat. No notch or points to grab a bolt like a stock starter. So the builder welded a tab on a stock one so it would catch. My point is not even important I just thought it was interesting when I mentioned it.
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Post by PICTUP on Mar 16, 2020 22:38:31 GMT -8
My point is not even important I just thought it was interesting when I mentioned it. I disagree. It shows what one has to do sometimes to make things work. I am glad you mentioned it and even though I generally understood what was going on because I have changed an engine or two, clarity on the point is appreciated.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 4, 2020 16:02:40 GMT -8
Well today was the day. Finally got the 2017 on the stand and fired it up. Ran 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Oil pressure is a bit high 60# @ 2000 rpm. Temp got to 180°F max and it's even charging the battery. I will now check valve lash and do a proper carb sync and see how it does but before that I have 2 oil leaks. 1 is nothing at all the other I may have to pull the head. A pushrod tube seal on the driver side at the head is leaking. The other is a fitting on the full flow cover. my stands gauge cluster. I want to run it for a few hours re tourq the heads and have it installed by month end. Cheers
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Post by Volktales on Apr 4, 2020 18:44:38 GMT -8
I betcha you were grinning as you revved it up, weren't you???
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 4, 2020 19:14:08 GMT -8
I was a nervous wreck. Don't know why but I was scared something would give a major issue. was just trying to get it to hold 2000 to 2200 rpm quickly turning screws and watching it close but it smoothed out pretty fast but It was a long 20 minutes. Im grinning a bit more now that I did a rough sync. It idles and has pretty fair throttle response. And surprisingly quiet with the straight cut gears, I am happy I got the cam break in done.
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Post by Volktales on Apr 5, 2020 16:48:28 GMT -8
At least you have been putting your enforced "holiday" to good use... This pandemic is really sucking.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 7, 2020 19:25:46 GMT -8
Just a update. Had a mishap with the ignition on the 2017cc. I had at some point tugged on the power leads to the points replacement and ruind it. So to the shelf I went and grabbed a msd style pertronix distributor and installed it along with a cb Black Box. Had to add vacuume ports to my manifolds in order to use the Black Box. I could have bought a kit, I just used some brake line. I drilled and pressed in short pieces in each runner. After that it was pretty straight foward to install. Connecting to my lap top took some doing to get everything talking. So at this point all seems good with the motor as it is running on the stand. I have about 1.25 hrs on it now. I am useing a N/A Dual carb spark map that came with the software. Starts runs well and seems resopnsive. Can't wait to drive it. Cheers for now.
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Post by owdlvr on Apr 8, 2020 8:47:27 GMT -8
I'm presuming your black box mounting is temporary? Electronics really don't like vibrations, so I wouldn't mount it on the motor permanently...
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 8, 2020 18:06:44 GMT -8
I'm presuming your black box mounting is temporary? Electronics really don't like vibrations, so I wouldn't mount it on the motor permanently... Your presumption is correct. It will live under the back seat. However if you have watched CB's install video they mounted it on the front of the shroud. Dave do you have any experience with them? I am having hard start issues with billet distributor and a ignitor 2 module. Works fine with 009 and a ignitor version 1 and a 009 with points.
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Post by Volktales on Apr 8, 2020 21:00:29 GMT -8
I am not familiar with your system, but can add a little something. Sometime ago, my friend Terry who is a life long hot-rodder, added an aftermarket throttle body fuel injection kit to his '65 Galaxie. It was suffering from poor starting/no starting at times. It turned out that the aftermarket billet distributor was not sending a clean signal to the ECM. I can't remember the details, but that is what the solution turned out to be. It seems the signal during cranking was not strong enough, but worked ok once the engine started. I think the RPMs shown on the tablet at cranking speed, kept cutting out on the first distributor. Terry always seems to have bad luck with aftermarket components. Sound familiar to our VW world???
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 8, 2020 21:27:53 GMT -8
I think you are on to somthing with that. I can see on the laptop it loses connection during cranking. I have a email off to CB to see what they have to say. I'm sure it will get sorted
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Post by owdlvr on Apr 9, 2020 0:23:17 GMT -8
I use the black box on the rally bug, but always with the 009 and ignitor version 1 or 2 (can't recall which). Checked my correspondence with Mark Lawless, haven't had any problems like you describe.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 9, 2020 7:52:23 GMT -8
I use the black box on the rally bug, but always with the 009 and ignitor version 1 or 2 (can't recall which). Checked my correspondence with Mark Lawless, haven't had any problems like you describe. Dave thanks for the reply. There is a 16 page thread on samba that I just went through. It is 12 pages of pissing match and a few pages of good info. My issue and and combo is mentioned by 1 user and was recreated CB's shop in all pointing to the shiny pertronix flamethrower distributor with the ignitor 2 module and the signal between the BB. I have a few choices. order a ignitor 1 module for the billet distributor and keep the big cap and shiny bits, learn to love the 009 with points or ignitor 1 module. or put the black box in a cardboard box and forget about it. I will wait to hear from CB before I decide what to do. It matches the paint on the car so I want to keep it. Link to the thread see page 9 www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606203&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=160
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