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Post by mitchy965 on Apr 29, 2020 11:11:28 GMT -8
if no oil is getting to the rockers,is it getting through the push rods? did you slot the lifters for full time oiling? i would put a 20 thou oiling slot in the rocker aimed at the valve before i compromised the push rod. reassemble it and run it without the valve cover to get an idea of what is actually happening here.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 29, 2020 12:26:18 GMT -8
if no oil is getting to the rockers,is it getting through the push rods? did you slot the lifters for full time oiling? i would put a 20 thou oiling slot in the rocker aimed at the valve before i compromised the push rod. reassemble it and run it without the valve cover to get an idea of what is actually happening here. Thanks Mitch. I am getting oil through the pushrods to the cups and to the shaft bushings those looked well oiled. I did notch the lifters as mentioned in Bergs instructional book before assembley. Notching the rockers is a good option I have heard ofit but never have seen or done it for my self. Forgive my ignorance but would you notch in this area? Should I do it in one both sides of the rockers? I sent both sets of rockers to the machine shop to have the pads polished. Once I get it back together I will run it without covers and get a good look at what is going on before anything drastic happens. Thanks for your help,much appreciated!
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Post by mitchy965 on Apr 29, 2020 14:05:24 GMT -8
looking at your illustration i would notch 1 side at or about 2:30. you could use your timing light strobe to check it with the cover off to see if your aim is correct.you probably need to hit 2000 rpm to get enough flow.
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Post by Rob Sannes on Apr 29, 2020 16:37:07 GMT -8
Cool. Thanks Mitch. Out of curiosity what valve lash do you use for steel pushrods? I have heard everything from .006 to loose 0. Berg says 0.004 ex and 0.006 for intake with steel pushrods.
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Post by mitchy965 on Apr 29, 2020 20:34:30 GMT -8
I don't use steel push rods in street engines if I can avoid it. near zero expansion rate and you know how much acvws expand and contract. in my race motor I run zero lash and if you check the lash after a pass(hot) I've seen 12thou clearance(no wonder they are noisy in street cars). but its what you got so my choice would be loose zero to 2thou. push rod tech has come a long way since bergs hayday when the thin wall stockers or steel were the only choices. my favourite is the alum hd from ACN. helpful if you have a lathe to cut and assemble them but can be done with a tubing cutter and a bfh, or get Twig to build them, he built his and they were perfect.
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Post by PICTUP on Apr 30, 2020 17:59:02 GMT -8
What exactly is that? Sorry, I am dense....
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Post by owdlvr on Apr 30, 2020 18:13:03 GMT -8
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Post by PICTUP on Apr 30, 2020 20:50:52 GMT -8
Isn't that a US site?
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Post by Rob Sannes on May 1, 2020 12:07:22 GMT -8
looking at your illustration i would notch 1 side at or about 2:30. you could use your timing light strobe to check it with the cover off to see if your aim is correct.you probably need to hit 2000 rpm to get enough flow. Thanks for your help on this. I did a .040 deep notch on the exhaust valve rockers only around 2:30 like you suggested and it seems to have helped get more oil up there With the timing light I could see oil was moving around pretty well so I'm going to call it good for now and inspect it frequently for a while.
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Post by Rob Sannes on May 3, 2020 18:51:05 GMT -8
I have been working on installing my motor in to the 56. Just plughing away at it. I have run in to plumbing issues. I bought some nice adapter fittings to join the existing -6 fule system to the new duel 44's, but the existing lines are too short. Makes sense the old manifolds and carbs were just much taller. Then one oil line is just 1/2 inch short. If you can believe it, the Scat full flow pump cover from the old motor was designed with a longer boss for the outgoing fitting compared to the bypass cover I'm useing. So I have 3 lines and 6 fittings that have to be addressed. My cheap nature wanted me to keep the fittings, but you can't just cut off the old hose with out a big risk of damaging the lock barbs. The alloy is so soft, so I used a soldering iron to hot cut the hose off without damaging the fittings. Now off to New Line in the morning to see if they have a suitable hose for me.
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Post by Volktales on May 3, 2020 19:39:06 GMT -8
The joys of custom parts... Assembling it with fresh new exact fit hoses will be nice, however...
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Post by Rob Sannes on May 17, 2020 9:22:16 GMT -8
You know that feeling when you realize all the hard work and money was wasted? I have had that feeling for a couple days now. I finally got to the point where the car was off the blocks and ready to turn the key. I started it it runs yes! Press the clutch and ok need to pull some free play out. Ok engage 1st gear and bang it pops out! Hmm. Re adjust shifter still does it and I can't understand. Imediatly as I let out the clutch it pops out of gear. Everything is new, good or rebuilt. Mounts shift coupler shift rod bushing. Shifter is a good one and it all worked before I changed the transaxle. Must be the transaxle.
So I gave up closed the garage and put the car up for sale because I'm not doing it all over again.
Then I came to my senses. I did the unthinkable. I asked my transaxle builder about it. He asked me to check one thing and from that the problem seems to be solved.
Terry H asked
Ok put it in first and mark the shift hockey stick. Then disconnect the coupler and see if the hockey stick goes farther in.
And I found that the red urethane shift rod coupler (early style ) is directional. The grub screws are different distances from the ends of the coupler. The way I had re installed it caused the coupler to hit the nosecone before 1st and 3rd gears could be completely engaged. Simply flipping the coupler fixed the issue. Should be test driving later today.
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Post by Volktales on May 17, 2020 14:51:50 GMT -8
I wouldn't test drive it today. Thunderstorms! Maybe hail. Nope, nope, nope! Glad you figured it out quickly instead of stewing about it for days!
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Post by Rob Sannes on May 17, 2020 15:31:07 GMT -8
I wouldn't test drive it today. Thunderstorms! Maybe hail. Nope, nope, nope! Glad you figured it out quickly instead of stewing about it for days! The thought of taking it to your shop Russ and dumping it in your lap came to mind for a minute. I was pretty happy with Terry responding to me in just minutes and asking me the right questions. I knew it had to be my fault but I just was so frustrated I couldn't see the problem. I had no Idea the early style urethane couplers were directional. Lesson learned.
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Post by Rob Sannes on May 18, 2020 19:38:32 GMT -8
I hope everyone had a good weekend. Took my bug out for a little testing today. Initial impressions are pretty good. I think I like the gearing of the transaxle. Runs pretty nice but I didn't take it that far yet. Cut out when getting to the top end but I forgot I have the rev limiter set at 4000. I have never had one on a vw before. Thanks Black Box. Cheers all!
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